[Raleigh]

Part #20 and 20A are effectively 2 separate 8 mf capacitors in the same cardboard tube with a common negative lead. I'd mount the new caps where they were originally (see below) and connect both 8 mf negative wires together. (NOT the negative from the 18 mf.) You might need to run a new negative wire from where you join the two 8 mf negatives together because the wires on your new caps might not be long enough.

I almost always restuff electrolytics, even the cardboard ones. For the two-wire ones, I put two new caps inside the cardboard tube and solder the negative wires together. I use heat-shrink sleeves to prevent the positive wires from touching each other. Then I bring the wires from the new caps out through the holes in the rivets (or sometimes I need to drill a small hole in the rivet or beside it). Then I solder the new wires to the old ones as close as possible to the rivet. You usually have to pay attention to which new capacitor + wire connects to which color old + wire, but since yours are both 8 mf, it doesn't matter.

I draw diagrams or take pictures before I take the old capacitors out so I can connect the wires back just as they were.

The two electrolytics (or three, if you don't restuff) should be mounted against the front of the chassis near the candohm multiple-tap resistor (in the upper left of your picture), instead of hanging where they do in your picture. There are a couple of slots in the chassis where Philco ran a thin strip of sheet steel to clamp the electrolytics to the side of the chassis. On one of my 42-355s the thin strip was missing, so I used a plastic tie-wrap instead.