[captainclock1988]

Hi Captain, your concern whether or not you should have used a cap in series with the RF cable is precisely why I added one inside when I changed over to BNC connectors. That way I don’t need to think about it and it’s less cumbersome than adding the cap to the cable. My SG-8 was my dad’s from the late 50s early 60s and the RF level control was burned out. I figured it must have been exposed to some hv at one time when dad used it, thus the reason I added the cap to the BNC. My conversion that I did works perfectly for me, no noise problems and the 400hz audio is fine, I don’t know what would have happened in your case. Oh, and I should have mentioned too that my frequency counter will go crazy if the internal modulation is turned on, only works properly on an unmodulated RF carrier.
   As for your ‘tuned harmonics’ , if you look at the signal coming from your SG-8 on an oscilloscope, you will see it’s not a pure sine wave at all. It has harmonics of the base frequency in it also. So for example, if you set your generator for 1Mhz, the second harmonic is 2 MHz, the third harmonic 3Mhz. If you have a sw radio tuned to 2 MHz, it will hear your generator that is set to 1 MHz. It is hearing the second harmonic. That is how they extend the range of frequencies on some generators. 

Ron

OK that makes sense, so in the case of the Heathkit, I noticed that when I turned the attenuator knob (RF Output knob) I noticed that when I turned it all the way up to the top of the knob the frequencies being put out by the generator on some bands doubled when being read by the frequency counter, which I take it that the Attenuator Knob (RF Output Knob) is how you use the extended harmonics?

Also as for testing the functionality of the signal generator I have an old Fada model 176 I have torn apart currently that I had recapped completely but was having problems with the tuning pointer binding up when I would try to tune in stations because the plastic dial cover was damaged and the dial pointer was catching on the dial cover so I could test it using that (it needs an alignment anyways) but I also have a couple of old hot chassis radios that need some work that I could test it on, like a 1952 vintage Zenith AM/FM Ciock Radio model J733 but that one requires me to hook directly to the grid of the 12AT7 Converter tube which is under the chassis of the radio which is probably not a good idea with it being a hot chassis set (it does say to use a .05 MFD 400 Volt Blocking capacitor inline with the signal generator, but I'm not going to take any chances and risk shocking myself.)  

So I think I'll use my Fada Radio to confirm the signal Generator's functionality which is not a hot chassis radio and does use alignment instructions similar to the Philco (except that the Fada calls out the use of a Capacitor inline with the Generator unlike the Philco.)