[criageek]

I agree...adding a power switch to the bucking transformer would be easy enough, but you'd have to reach around and into the back of the cabinet to use it.  Not too handy.

I attached a drawing of my wiring.  I know it will be hard to follow so I'll try to explain it.  The AC line comes into the bucking transformer (BT) (I'll use the term "bucking transformer" or "BT" to refer to the case containing the actual transformer, switch, fuse, and terminal strip).  The hot lead goes through a fuse then out of the BT , through a connector (I installed a connector so I could remove the BT and the radio chassis separately...just easier to manage) and into the radio.  It terminates at the center terminal of the bakelite capacitor.  The other end of this terminal has a wire going to the power switch.  The other wire on the switch originally went to pin 7 of the 5Y3 rectifier.  I moved it to pin 3 of the 5Y3 which was unused.  Then I added a wire to pin 3 of the 5Y3 that runs back out of the radio, back through the connector, and into the BT to provide switched power to the BT.  Then the reduced voltage (both hot and neutral) from the BT is fed back out of the BT, through the connector and into the radio.  The hot lead connects to pin 7 of the 5Y3 (which also has a wire to the power transformer on it), and the neutral lead goes to the other cap in the bakelite block.

If you wanted to use a 3 wire power cord, you'd have to run the 3rd wire (ground) from the BT and into the radio as well.  So would have a total of 5 wires running between the BT and the radio.  I printed the grommet for the wires going into the back of the radio chassis.  It's sized for the particular wire I used so would have to be adjusted for not only the wire you use, but also for the 5th wire.

Make sense?  Let me know if you have questions  ;)

Rich