Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Starting a 37-10 project - odd cap question
#7

Hi Larry! Thanks for the reply. As I was removing that capacitor shown in the original photo on this thread, I did note that the bracket was clearly an add-on, soldered to the case, and most likely for the reason you mentioned. That's a big, heavy sucker.

I may have been a bit free with my language last night as I was tracing the parts and trying to find a problem I've run into. I was, perhaps, complaining out loud to the universe. This is my third radio project and I feel like I went from fiddling with an erector set to building a suspension bridge.

I assure you, I promise I am not just yanking parts, and I sincerely thank you for your suggestions.

I am not only taking photos, but i'm taking them with index cards held in the photo with an ID number and a quick note, and a correlated numbered entry in the notebook with what i've found about it. Then I duplicate the photo on the phone to add circles and arrows with a paragraph in the notebook explaining what each one was, to be used as evidence against the atrocity I'm committing against this device.

I'm also going to put little tags on the wires, I think, since the colors are faded and 99% of them just look dirty-white.

I take your comment about not being point-to-point, just that somewhere in the circuit, there is a component between this part of it and that part of it, to heart. I've run into that before in a lot of my more... solid-state work. 

This was probably a rather poor choice for my third go-round, but this one has very high sentimental value.

I've got two components that I'm not 100% sure about what they are, still in-place, that I don't yet have photos of.
I may take pics and post later today or tomorrow after work. 
My naivety on this project should be a big red waving flag to me.

thanks again!

Knows enough to be dangerous, occasionally successful, rarely correct.





Users browsing this thread: 3 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Shadow Meter Bulb
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
3D-printing...short of machining, of course. Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
Thanks, Morzh. That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Absolutely no one is going to reverse engineer that circuit. Even the iron core is missing.RodB — 10:37 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Thanks to both members for your help regarding wire and tuner mtg supports. regards--Johngeorgetownjohn — 09:33 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>