[morzh]

the grommets came from RR; I used the symmetrical one; it is smaller and is exactly 1/2" thick; it took quite an effort to insert them, especially the one to the left of the switch at the front: very little space and a wirte bundle, and the fact it is on the left of the switch (not much space to use a tool held in my right hand) contributed to the difficulty. But eventually they all went in. After having tightened all three screws I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of wobble, despite little or no compression of the grommets - the grommets are quite a bit wider than the originals and provide good support when the tuning cap is attempted to be tilted.

BTW a good way to take off the solder of the screws (I unscrewed them with pliers) is to set your iron at 760 or so (regular soldering temp of 670-680 is a bit low for this), hold the screw with the pliers by the very end, heat it 'till the solder melts and simply shake it once downwards. Be careful not to do it over you feet - do it gently and over the bench. Once is enough.

No I have to re-assemble the volume pot, the tone ctl, re-solder the grounding mesh wires to the screws, blow the tuning cap (don't feel like taking it off and washing - it is clean but a tad dusty; a can of air should do) ad then align it.

And of course I have not had a chance to see the shadograph working, plus there is a light assembly.

PS. Reassembled everything, works fine.
Changed the bulb in the Shadograph; it works though the sector is really pushed to the right and the way it acts is almost as if there is a light sector that widens up instead of the dark one narrowing down when being tuned.
The band switch switches the band light indicators just fine.