10-19-2022, 09:13 PM
Then I took the aluminum cap from vinegarv bath. It clean it remarkably well. Rinse with water, dry.
Also the top, where there was the rubber plug, is fitted with a copper rivet to accomodate the common minus wire.
Then make the stuffing. An 8uF Solen cap with a 22uF hi-ripple 450V Panasonic cap on top. The 22uF is wrapped in fish paper so that it keeps the wires from touching close to aluminum shell etc.
The common minus is sticking up and will go through the center of the top of the can.
Then the Solen is also wrapped in fish paper to keep the positive wire from the 22uF cap from touching the aluminum.
It is done separately as the electrolytic cap is excentric towards the film cap, and its diameter is larger than the radious of the Solen, and so the resulting common wrap would not fit in the aluminum shell.
This way it does. The paper wrappings are secured with fabric glue and are reliably keeping the bare wires and the solder joints insulated.
The common minus obviously was hard to aim to go through the rivet, so all it took was soldering lead wire to it, long enough so it could be easily aimed at the rivet hole, and then the rest just followed, even without pulling the lead wire.
After glueing the case together, the terminals and the common minus were soldered.
Here's the common minus. It reliably makes the case the negative, so now it can be treated as was the original cap: using the lug slid under the cardboard shell touching the case and then clamped by the common dual clamp that holds the caps to the chassis.
The meter shows 8uf and 22uF.
The two caps together.
Also the top, where there was the rubber plug, is fitted with a copper rivet to accomodate the common minus wire.
Then make the stuffing. An 8uF Solen cap with a 22uF hi-ripple 450V Panasonic cap on top. The 22uF is wrapped in fish paper so that it keeps the wires from touching close to aluminum shell etc.
The common minus is sticking up and will go through the center of the top of the can.
Then the Solen is also wrapped in fish paper to keep the positive wire from the 22uF cap from touching the aluminum.
It is done separately as the electrolytic cap is excentric towards the film cap, and its diameter is larger than the radious of the Solen, and so the resulting common wrap would not fit in the aluminum shell.
This way it does. The paper wrappings are secured with fabric glue and are reliably keeping the bare wires and the solder joints insulated.
The common minus obviously was hard to aim to go through the rivet, so all it took was soldering lead wire to it, long enough so it could be easily aimed at the rivet hole, and then the rest just followed, even without pulling the lead wire.
After glueing the case together, the terminals and the common minus were soldered.
Here's the common minus. It reliably makes the case the negative, so now it can be treated as was the original cap: using the lug slid under the cardboard shell touching the case and then clamped by the common dual clamp that holds the caps to the chassis.
The meter shows 8uf and 22uF.
The two caps together.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.