[MrFixr55]

OK, R10 smoking is a real "smoking gun (pardon the pun!). Sorry, this is lengthy, but I think I know what is wrong here. Spoiler alert. If there is no insulating hardware between Q1 and the heat sink, this is your issue. Read on for the whole story.

The scientific method:

Observation- A working device does not smoke. When smoke is seen, the device stops working.

Conclusion- Devices are filled with smoke. Smoke is the lifeblood of the device. When the smoke vents from the device, the device fails.

OK, we're getting somewhere. I wish that they silkscreened the wire side with the component symbols or silkscreened the component side with the interconnects, but:

Don't bother taking the transformer off. The "divide and conquer" point is R10. There is definitely an issue downwind (on the "load" side) of R10. It is likely that the transformer and rectifier installation is good. I am looking at both sides of the board and can't tell for sure but I think that R10 is after C3. and is between C3 and the Pass Transistor for the 180V Supply and everything that it powers (and it seems to power everything downwind of it).

Try this:

1. Inspect the board for solder bridges, etc.
2. verify that C3 is installed with the correct polarity (reversing polarity on an electrolytic cap causes it to short). The Band with the - signs should align with the white wedge painted on the board.
3. Remove R10, power up and check across C3. If you get about 300V across the cap, and no smoke or heat, then there is a short somewhere downwind of R10. If no voltage at the cap, but 240V between wires 7 and 12 and about 300V between the paired anodes and paired cathodes of the bridge then R10 is between Diode Bridge and the Cap C3. If R10 is after Cap C3, then anything on the regulator circuit of this PS is suspect. If R10 is before C3, then C3 and anything in the regulator circuit is suspect.

4. If the transformer, bridge and cap C3 check out as installed (300VDC across Cap C3, no smoke when R10 is removed) then start checking the rest of it.
5. With R10 still out of the circuit, Ohm between R10 opposite of C3 and the B- terminal. A short may be detected here.

6. Is there an insulator between Q1 and the heatsink, and is there insulating hardware between the screw that holds Q1 to the heatsink? If not, this may be causing a short. Remove the screws that hold the heatsink to the board (These ground the heatsink to the B- plane. Take caution as not the heatsink is now electrically hot. Is the short cleared. Reinstall R10. Does the power supply now work?

Was there any instruction sheet sent with this board? Can you post it or PM it (whatever is a legal way that does not violate Phorum rules). I am not trashing AWA here; they are a great organization. I know that AWA would like to protect the intellectual property behind this power supply, but they really do need to provide more info than they appear to have done.



How much did it cost for all the parts?

This is a rather neat power supply. I have an ARBE III that I bought instead of building a supply due to time constraints. It works great but is a very simple supply.

This one has to be pretty expensive due to the 3 transformers but is a neat concept.

Good luck, keep posting and I will keep trying to help. I do not have a draw program and my way of printing and scanning is broken, but I think that I have a picture in my head of the schematic.