01-29-2023, 11:48 AM
Thanks guys for your input! @Vinzer, yes the 37 is an AC power set but my parts chassis didn’t come with one. That and the fact that I already have the tubes needed for my 35, I’m going to keep with my original plan of getting it up and running.
@Chas, lots of good info there you supplied. I had already ohmed out the audio transformers before deciding on buying the parts chassis and they seem fine. I did have the less expensive option of just buying the brass pulleys and bands but decided on getting the whole chassis as it would have other parts I might need down the road. I did notice the tuning caps are a bit stiff and I believe it’s what caused the original bands to break. One good thing with this set is it only has a 0-100 tuning scale instead of actual frequencies so there is no real alignment to be done other than the crude procedure of getting all the tuning caps synchronized! I have added a drop of 3 in 1 oil to the bearings and it made a world of difference. Where it says to use petroleum jelly on the rheostat, I’m assuming that’s regular Vic’s petroleum jelly straight out of the medicine cabinet.
Also, as I stated before, I mainly resurrected this radio for the the sole purpose of experimenting with the grid leak detector so for now, it will be an abomination on my bench with having a computer power supply for the “A” and “C” supply and a bunch of 9V batteries for the “B” supply. Not very pretty and certainly not what the Mrs. wants in her living room Someday I may want it for display but then I will get a more streamlined power supply for it like an ARBEIII and a period correct speaker!
@MrFixr, not sure why having a 27 for the detector would affect the 3rd RF coil to be 20uh more than having the 200A. Lots of trial and error experimenting ahead.
For anyone needing good info on Atwater Kents, I found this website to be a decent source…http://www.atwaterkent.info/
Ron
@Chas, lots of good info there you supplied. I had already ohmed out the audio transformers before deciding on buying the parts chassis and they seem fine. I did have the less expensive option of just buying the brass pulleys and bands but decided on getting the whole chassis as it would have other parts I might need down the road. I did notice the tuning caps are a bit stiff and I believe it’s what caused the original bands to break. One good thing with this set is it only has a 0-100 tuning scale instead of actual frequencies so there is no real alignment to be done other than the crude procedure of getting all the tuning caps synchronized! I have added a drop of 3 in 1 oil to the bearings and it made a world of difference. Where it says to use petroleum jelly on the rheostat, I’m assuming that’s regular Vic’s petroleum jelly straight out of the medicine cabinet.
Also, as I stated before, I mainly resurrected this radio for the the sole purpose of experimenting with the grid leak detector so for now, it will be an abomination on my bench with having a computer power supply for the “A” and “C” supply and a bunch of 9V batteries for the “B” supply. Not very pretty and certainly not what the Mrs. wants in her living room Someday I may want it for display but then I will get a more streamlined power supply for it like an ARBEIII and a period correct speaker!
@MrFixr, not sure why having a 27 for the detector would affect the 3rd RF coil to be 20uh more than having the 200A. Lots of trial and error experimenting ahead.
For anyone needing good info on Atwater Kents, I found this website to be a decent source…http://www.atwaterkent.info/
Ron
Bendix 0626. RCA 8BX5. RCA T64
Philco 41-250. Philco49-500
GE 201. Philco 39-25
Motorola 61X13. Philco 46-42 Crosley 52TQ
Philco 37-116. Philco 70
AK 35 Philco 46-350
Philco 620B. Zenith Transoceanic B-600
Philco 60B. Majestic 50
Philco 52-944. AK 84