[Chas]

Try to keep the insulating plastic layer the same thickness. I have found plastic bottle is O.K. (PETE or PEET). But Kapton tape in layers probably better because adhesive will keep it in place.

Avoid using coil dope, if there is a mistake any dope will make it difficult to undue.

Plain bees is useful, no paraffin as that is slippery and melts at a lower temperature.

Bees wax for encaustic painting is hardened with Damar resin, that, also raises the temperature. IMHO the mix ratio is likely less than for encaustic as encaustic is rather hard... But is is a tough painting wax in use since the 5th century

Dipping the clean form into cup of melted bees wax will drive out moisture, leave long enough to thoroughly heat the form then remove, "drip-dry" a thin film of bees wax will leave the form "sticky" and wire will wind nicely and stay in place. Don't let wax get under Kapton tape as it won't stick.

If your unsure of connections...

Pick a terminal preferably #1 bend a terminal to ID., using a sheet of paper, put #1 in upper left, draw a large rectangle near the edges of the paper and translate (un-roll) all the data on the coil to the paper as a diagram. The wind direction, turns, wire size, access holes, positions of windings. Then, if you get tired or forget details, work can be set aside finished later, bees wax will hold the windings for a week or so... it is extra work but a complex coil, like an oscillator for a multi-band set, is a memory nightmare...

You can dip the completed coil in the hot wax. Bees wax with Damar would be better but I have used just plain pure bees wax. Dip and let sit heating to drive off moisture. Then remove and let cool to room temp.. Then, dip quick again, like dipping for a candle, dip twice and the wax will build but QUICK so not to heat the coil and loose the wax build.

GL

Chas