06-14-2024, 11:33 AM
Hi Tony and welcome to the fray,
A few things. The Phorum will only except attachments of a size certain and not larger. I suspect that's why yours didn't show up. Bob can help you w/that issue.
You didn't link a schematic to your post, please don't take this the wrong way I'm not scolding but this is a good one here: https://philcoradio.com/library/images/schem/111.jpg It includes all of the parts values so there's no jockeying between parts list and diagram.
The caps inside the tin. On these early sets w/ the small capacitance value cap like 1-3mfd use mylar or film non polarize caps. If electrolytic caps are used after several months of usage I've had them short and take out the rectifier tube. They over heat and short were the film jobs run cool.
In terms of getting the old caps out. Unsolder the wires from the bottom and remove it from the chassis. Pop the bottom cover from the tin and cut the wires that are connected to the are encased in tar above. Clean it up and solder in new caps. Top section put in freezer over night. This will shrink the tar a little bit and if your really lucky all of the innards will fall out by dropping it straight down on a flat surface from about a foot or less. Plan B is use a long drywall screw into the center tar and a pair of vise gripe to pull it out.
Something you may want to grab if you don't have is some in the spares bin is magnet wire. 32, 34, 38G is good for coil winding. For shadow meters I like 40G but I don't think this set has one.
Amazon has cloth covered line cords w/a plug for less than you can buy it by the spool and cut your own. Spool is abt 1.15 a ' and the cord was 6.95. This was about a yr ago. Oh and the cord is 7'.
A few things. The Phorum will only except attachments of a size certain and not larger. I suspect that's why yours didn't show up. Bob can help you w/that issue.
You didn't link a schematic to your post, please don't take this the wrong way I'm not scolding but this is a good one here: https://philcoradio.com/library/images/schem/111.jpg It includes all of the parts values so there's no jockeying between parts list and diagram.
The caps inside the tin. On these early sets w/ the small capacitance value cap like 1-3mfd use mylar or film non polarize caps. If electrolytic caps are used after several months of usage I've had them short and take out the rectifier tube. They over heat and short were the film jobs run cool.
In terms of getting the old caps out. Unsolder the wires from the bottom and remove it from the chassis. Pop the bottom cover from the tin and cut the wires that are connected to the are encased in tar above. Clean it up and solder in new caps. Top section put in freezer over night. This will shrink the tar a little bit and if your really lucky all of the innards will fall out by dropping it straight down on a flat surface from about a foot or less. Plan B is use a long drywall screw into the center tar and a pair of vise gripe to pull it out.
Something you may want to grab if you don't have is some in the spares bin is magnet wire. 32, 34, 38G is good for coil winding. For shadow meters I like 40G but I don't think this set has one.
Amazon has cloth covered line cords w/a plug for less than you can buy it by the spool and cut your own. Spool is abt 1.15 a ' and the cord was 6.95. This was about a yr ago. Oh and the cord is 7'.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got it!
Terry
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