01-05-2025, 09:35 PM
MrFixr55 having the brick inside totally lays waste to the AM band but on FM it pulls in lots of stations.
I wonder how good this radio could be if it was aligned. But I don't know anything about doing rf alignment.
I like watching shango66 do it on YouTube.
I have a WWII vintage dynamotor that puts out something crazy like 250v DC 60w on 24v DC.
I was playing around and on 12.5v it would put out 125v DC so I hooked my cheap 1949 northern electric baby champ AA5 to it.
It worked well and hashfree but it was a bit quiet. Plate voltage was just 125v DC not 160v DC from rectified and filtered mains.
Now this radio came to me with a factory 35v output tube which with an AA5 should have had a 50z5.
Turns out the series string had a resistor in there. I bridged it with a wire and replaced the 35z5 with a 50z5 and the thing sounded better and was one watt cooler.
I think if I took out the bridge wire, and jacked up the dynamotor to 14v, the b+ would be as high as it would be in normal AC mains.
But running on a fully charged 12v battery and dynamotor
I wonder how good this radio could be if it was aligned. But I don't know anything about doing rf alignment.
I like watching shango66 do it on YouTube.
I have a WWII vintage dynamotor that puts out something crazy like 250v DC 60w on 24v DC.
I was playing around and on 12.5v it would put out 125v DC so I hooked my cheap 1949 northern electric baby champ AA5 to it.
It worked well and hashfree but it was a bit quiet. Plate voltage was just 125v DC not 160v DC from rectified and filtered mains.
Now this radio came to me with a factory 35v output tube which with an AA5 should have had a 50z5.
Turns out the series string had a resistor in there. I bridged it with a wire and replaced the 35z5 with a 50z5 and the thing sounded better and was one watt cooler.
I think if I took out the bridge wire, and jacked up the dynamotor to 14v, the b+ would be as high as it would be in normal AC mains.
But running on a fully charged 12v battery and dynamotor