[MrFixr55]

Ho OSanders,

Sorry, I got really busy in May and haven't seen your thread in a while.  I am VERY sorry about that. 

Stick to it and you will get this to work.  A couple of things that may help you:

One must pay attention to both polarity and working voltage for any electrolytic capacitor, new or old, axial or radial wet or dry. 

• It was common for people to " bridge" old electrolytic caps with new ones.  This is why that blue cap exists.  It was bridging one section of that paper electrolytic 2 section capacitor.  Take them all out and replace with originals.
  

• Electrolytic caps can either open or short as they get old.  The "dry" type tends to open.  The wet ones often short.  When installed backwards or working voltage is exceeded electrolytics overheat, short and explode.  C40 being installed backwards could have taken out the resistor.
  

• As stated before, one does not have to match the stated voltage of non-electrolytic caps to the actual voltages encountered; order the highest voltage rating available.  For restoring old radios, ordering caps with a voltage rating of 630V is best.
  

• In addition to all the other problems with this radio, you also have to deal with the crumbling rubber insulation.  This can be done either by replacing the entire wire or by cutting only 1 end and slipping some heat shrink tubing or "spaghetti" over the conductor.
  

• If repairing a radio but not intending to make a museum piece, replace capacitors and resistors by cutting the wire at the part itself, not at the terminal or socket connection.  Bend the remaining lead wires into a hook, and install the leads of the new wire into these "hooks" and hook the new wire into the old, crimp and solder.  This way, you don't have to heat up a terminal on a terminal strip or tube socket.
  

• I have both pencil type soldering irons and a Weller soldering gun.  Each have their place, but for this type work, a 40 watt pencil may be better suited than the Weller gun for this job.  Tip condition, shape, cleanliness and tinning are important to any soldering iron or gun.  For this work, a chisel tip may be best.  The idea in soldering is to "heat the work, not the solder.  There is nothing wrong with touching solder to the tip at the work to get the heat to conduct and melt the existing solder on the joint, but heating the joint is the whole idea.  the end result is a smooth joint with good mechanical connection before adding the solder.  When replacing multiple components on the same terminal, if the "hook" method described above is not used, desoldering, removing all wires from the connection, crimping all components to the connection and resoldering is the way to go.  I tend to use the thinnest 60/40 solder available.
  
• Having specifications and pin diagrams for the tubes used in a radio are very important, especially when the "pinouts" are not listed on the schematic, as is the case here.  The RCA Receiving Tube Manual is a vital reference for anyone in this hobby.  It is available in several editions.  For this set, the RC16 version, published in 1947 is a good source of information.  This version can be found on the internet.  For your convenience, I have attached the pin diagram for the 7B5 Audio Output tube and the 7Y4 Rectifier are attached below:
  

             
             

• Per these diagrams, the black or blue wire from the audio output transformer goes to Pin 2 of the 7B5 output tube.  The Red Wire goes to B+, the junction of C40A (red wire on the original cap), Pin 3 of the 7B5 output tube, the output of the speaker field coil and several resistors, wires, etc.  The other field coil wire goes to the cathode of the 7Y4 Rectifier (Pin7) along with the positive lead of C57,, the 18 uF cap.
  
• Note that the "inactive" pins on some tube sockets (pins that have no connection to an element of a tube) are often used as terminals where wires or componeints such as caps and resistors are joined.  Do not let this confuse you.
  
• When troubleshooting, "divide and conquer" inject an audio signal such as the output of an MP3 player CD or cassette player, etc between chassis ground and the ngrounded "leg" of the volume control.  If the sound output is good, then troubleshoot the detector, IF, convertor and F sections of the radio.  If n o sound, troubleshoot the audio and power supply circuits.
  

Hoep that all of this helps.