06-19-2025, 11:20 PM
Some good news on this set. I took Vlad's guidance and fed audio through the 3S4 and heard it OK. It seemed a bit off in sound but I moved on to the 1S5 and got absolutely nothing out. I checked voltages around the 1S5 and realized I had 60 volts on the plate when there should only be 25 volts. I rechecked all the connections I had made in recapping to be sure I had not connected one to the wrong place but all seemed OK. Next step was to reflow the solder on the pin 5 plate connection. After that it seemed to play reasonably well and with some clean up of the volume control and the tuning capacitor to eliminate most of the static it aligned properly and is playing well.
The R-4 replacement resistor (200 ohm, 5 watt) gets pretty hot so I may see if I can fit in a 10 watt but I think its going to be mighty tight. One think to watch if you are replacing the power cord on this set it to not make it too long. I put in a 6 foot cord, forgetting that when the set is all closed up and playing on battery, the power cord plugs into the chassis in a way that switches it over to battery operation and you then coil the cord around the A battery holder tabs. I had so much cord that wrapping it up and shutting the case was not working so I cut it down to about a 4 foot power cord. To be honest, the metal case along with the hot chassis seems kind of dangerous so this is best played with the battery anyway. Once its all reassembled, I will be checking to ensure that the chassis is not connected to the metal case. Unfortunately you can not use a polarized power plug on this and still get the plug to fit into the ac/battery switch.
I still need to get the battery snaps installed, do some additional restoration/clean up on the case and then hopefully this one will be finished.
The R-4 replacement resistor (200 ohm, 5 watt) gets pretty hot so I may see if I can fit in a 10 watt but I think its going to be mighty tight. One think to watch if you are replacing the power cord on this set it to not make it too long. I put in a 6 foot cord, forgetting that when the set is all closed up and playing on battery, the power cord plugs into the chassis in a way that switches it over to battery operation and you then coil the cord around the A battery holder tabs. I had so much cord that wrapping it up and shutting the case was not working so I cut it down to about a 4 foot power cord. To be honest, the metal case along with the hot chassis seems kind of dangerous so this is best played with the battery anyway. Once its all reassembled, I will be checking to ensure that the chassis is not connected to the metal case. Unfortunately you can not use a polarized power plug on this and still get the plug to fit into the ac/battery switch.
I still need to get the battery snaps installed, do some additional restoration/clean up on the case and then hopefully this one will be finished.




