[MrFixr55]

Hi Rich,

I actually have this radio! A nice performer, although with only 180V, a little light in the audio output department (2W). Yours looks very nice, likely from a non-smoker. How rare! Certainly, change all of the electrolytic and paper- foil caps in this set and verify all resistors in the audio output stage. This set uses a very unique method for getting the 180 degree out of phase signal for the 2nd output tube in the push pull circuit: They do not use a phase inverter stage; they get it from the screen of the first tube through a resistor. Verify that resistors 53, 54 and 56 are as close to dead on as possible, same with the resistor #61 which biases the output stage. If distortion is too high, switch the 2 41 output tubes with each other or try to get a matched pair.
I upped my filter caps to 30 uF and 30 uF but it is because I had a bad field coil and replaced the speaker with a modern PM speaker and a 1100 Ohm resistor. The RCA Receiving Tube Manual states that for input cap values greater than 40 uF, a higher impedance input to the tube is needed, so I think I am OK with the 30 uF caps. However, there are those who state that this is a rather weak tube.

I agree 100% about not switching neutrals. This is not an AA5 set where they switched the chassis side of the set. The nice thing about this set is that being transformer powered and that the EMI caps from both "legs" of the power line tie to the chassis, neither side is really neutral. The downside is that either way, there is a little "tickle because both EMI caps tie to the chassis, leaving it at about 60V above ground regardless of which way the plug is inserted into the outlet. To ensure that the switch is in the hot side and that the EMI cap on the hot side is switched, put one EMI cap after the switch and that ensure that the power lead going to the switch is on the skinnier prong of a polarized plug.

My set came with a replaced power cord, but I am almost positive that the power cord for this set was rubber, had strain relief molded onto it, a molded rubber non-polarized plug (they did not make polarized plugs until the 60s or 70s), and a yellow UL label wrapped on one end. I do not believe that the cable was cloth covered.

I can't read the station tags on my set; I bought it from eBay about 10 years ago. Based on the station tags on your set, (WJZ, WEAF, WHN, WNEW, WABC) your set came from the New York Metro Area, my neck of the woods.

There was someone who makes the Tenite escutcheon plates for this set, but I can't remember who. You can google Escutcheon plate for Philco 41-255 and see what happens. They always shrink and crack. Same with the buttons.

For the switch, you can drill out the rivets. A similar power switch with a rotating button is still made, so you may be able to swap the contacts from the new switch into the original one

Hope this helps.