08-11-2025, 09:44 PM
Other than possible AC Hum (and I don't think that that is an issue), for the life of me, I don't know why every manufacturer switched the neutral on AC-DC sets, even clock radios (OK, the clock was AC but the chassis was still AC-DC) switched the neutral. This leaves a condition that no matter how the plug is inserted, there is a condition where the chassis is warm (when cap / resistor coupled to B-) or hot (when thechassis is directly connected to the line..
On any set where I can rewire so that the switch is on the hot side and the neutral wire goes to B-, I do so.
Exceptions include the one set that I own with a working curtain burner power cord and some of my Line / battery sets.
On one Transitone I repaired, I was able to save the strain relief by drilling out the wire, passing the new wire through it and securing with a zip tie. On my 48-206, the rubber line cord and original plug, complete with UL band is in sufficiently good condition to use. I did rewire the set for switching the hot line and modified the neutral pin of the plug by cutting the end and widening it, closing the loop with soler.
On any set where I can rewire so that the switch is on the hot side and the neutral wire goes to B-, I do so.
Exceptions include the one set that I own with a working curtain burner power cord and some of my Line / battery sets.
On one Transitone I repaired, I was able to save the strain relief by drilling out the wire, passing the new wire through it and securing with a zip tie. On my 48-206, the rubber line cord and original plug, complete with UL band is in sufficiently good condition to use. I did rewire the set for switching the hot line and modified the neutral pin of the plug by cutting the end and widening it, closing the loop with soler.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
Best Regards,
MrFixr55
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