[MrFixr55]

Hi IntraStelle, and welcome to the Philco Phorum, A Phamily Phriendly Phorum pfull of phine phriendly pholks phull of phun Philco pfacts. (Notice a pattern here?)

We are very happy to have you as a member and are happy to help you navigate this Phorum as well as help you with your radio.

Please take a moment or two to read through the Phorum rules and the "What not to post" thread.  Also take time to introduce yourself in the "Introduce Yourself" forum, located in the "Members Only" page and don't forget to visit Old Ron's Bar and Grill for a virtual brew and to shoot the breeze.  Please also note that Under "Various and Sundry Categories", there are forums (oops Phorums) for non-Philco radios, HiFi, test equipment, etc.

Regarding your problem, the "Candohm" is a multiple tapped carbon resistor used in this set to provide various "grid bias" voltages.  Since this resistor is between chassis ground and the center tap (- return) of the HV power supply, all DC current flows through this resistor.  Since a short to ground would not be an actual dead short of the power supply, the failure of this resistor likely is from the same issue that caused your rectifier tube to exhibit the epic fail that you described.

If you are using a schematic from Nostalgia Air, the one from our library may be more clear. If you navigate to the Philco Library on the top of the Phorum Page, select Service Documents, then 1942 yearbook, you can find the schematic. For your convenience, I post the link here:
https://philcoradio.com/library/download...20Book.pdf

Please refer to this schematic and note that the 2 filter caps have 2 different connection points for the negative poles of these caps.

The negative lead of 18 uF cap, # 89 connects to the center tap of the B Power Supply (HV Secondary winding of the power transformer). The positive lead of this cap connects to the junction of the rectifier cathode and the input to the speaker field coil. The 8uF Cap, C49A connects between chassis ground (negative lead of cap) and the output of the speaker field coil, the center tap of the output transformer and the main B+ line (positive lead of cap).

Start out by measuring resistance ("Ohming") across the 8 uF capacitor labeled 49A in the schematic.  This "cap" is between chassis ground and the main B+ line that powers the output stage and the rest of the radio.  If you read a short or very low resistance here, troubleshoot this before powering up.  Verify that the capacitor is not installed backwards and that the working voltage is above 250 WV (Working Volts).  It should actually be at least 350WV.  Cap #80 should also be at least 350 WV, preferably 400 WV.  If you have the original "cans" check for capacity and voltage rating.  You can go a little above the rated capacity (10 uF instead of 8 uF or 20 uF instead of 16 uF) but not much higher.  BTW, don't just "bridge" the existing original cap, remove all connections from it, as the original cap may be shorted.  Another possibility is that if the output capacitor has an open winding, it will cause the output tube connected to that winding to draw all current through its Screen Grid, heating it white hot and likely shorting to the suppressor grid, which is at ground level.  This would amount to a short across the B+ supply taking out the Candohm resistor (and possibly the rectifier).  Measuring across Cap 49A, pull the two 41 Output tubes, one at a time.  If the short clears, you found the shorted tube.  It must be replaced.  Also, Ohm the transformer to confirm the open winding.  The transformer must be replaced before installing new tubes.  41s are easily available on eBay.

Once you locate and correct the short, you can replace the Candohm, #88 with 2 resistors, an 18 ohm from chassis ground to the center point and a 175 Ohm resistor between the center point and the center tap of the transformer (and the negative connection to Cap # 80). 5Watt resistors should work, 10 Watt resistors are even better.  As with the capacitors, do not just "bridge" the Candohm, remove all connections from it and use terminal strips to mount the resistors.  Consider the Candohm to be totally fried.

Hope this helps.  Like the old Home Depot ad, "You can do it.  We can help".