07-19-2006, 11:26 PM
Jun, continuing:
If every thing has worked as outlined in the last "chapter" you can now do the final assembly. You should have the base with the piece of pipe cemented to it and the empty can.
Solder the positive lead of the new cap to the center terminal lug now bolted through the center of the inside of the base.
Bolt the negative lead of the new cap to the 1" strip of aluminum flashing that has been conformed to the base. Position the stripe in the center of the 1/2" opening in the pipe and down the side of the base.
Slide the can over the base and press it home. The aluminum strip should give some resistance as it gets pinched between the base and the can. Once the can is pressed home bend the exposed stripe under the base.
With an ohm meter check that you have continuity from the can to the strip on the bottom. If that checks out you can mount the can in the chassis and tighten the mounting nut. Again, check with an ohm meter that you now have continuity from the chassis to the can.
Notes: Use thin flashing. Watch that you do not allow the new cap leads to short to each other or the can (use sleeving). The pipe supports the can on the base snugly. I don't cement (epoxy) the can to the pipe as it fits snugly on its own and has the added advantage of allowing you to replace the cap by just pulling off the can. You can cement the can to the pipe but I don't. I'm sure I must have missed something but I,m getting tired and prone to mistakezzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. whops! Boy is a picture worth a thousand word? Pat
If every thing has worked as outlined in the last "chapter" you can now do the final assembly. You should have the base with the piece of pipe cemented to it and the empty can.
Solder the positive lead of the new cap to the center terminal lug now bolted through the center of the inside of the base.
Bolt the negative lead of the new cap to the 1" strip of aluminum flashing that has been conformed to the base. Position the stripe in the center of the 1/2" opening in the pipe and down the side of the base.
Slide the can over the base and press it home. The aluminum strip should give some resistance as it gets pinched between the base and the can. Once the can is pressed home bend the exposed stripe under the base.
With an ohm meter check that you have continuity from the can to the strip on the bottom. If that checks out you can mount the can in the chassis and tighten the mounting nut. Again, check with an ohm meter that you now have continuity from the chassis to the can.
Notes: Use thin flashing. Watch that you do not allow the new cap leads to short to each other or the can (use sleeving). The pipe supports the can on the base snugly. I don't cement (epoxy) the can to the pipe as it fits snugly on its own and has the added advantage of allowing you to replace the cap by just pulling off the can. You can cement the can to the pipe but I don't. I'm sure I must have missed something but I,m getting tired and prone to mistakezzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. whops! Boy is a picture worth a thousand word? Pat
