01-22-2026, 07:02 AM
The set that I have came with the z3 rectifier and without the 80 ohm resistor, no resistance wire in the heater line either. The schematic shows the 80 ohm as part 46 with a note that they only came on the 121, so I’m pretty sure it’s a 122. Plus the lamp is a screw in type so I found a 4watt 120 v that shouldn’t get too hot. The heater line was wired as shown in the schematic for the 121 meaning that the dotted line config wasn’t there and that confused me given the Z3 and lack of the 80 ohm resistor, meaning it doesn’t show when I do continuity checks from tube to tube. The heater line is wired kind of odd in the 122 where the rectifier and output are together and the lamp wiring drops in at the rect plate and jumps to heater at 7c6. Never seen that configuration before. Most of the wiring will need replacing and I’m planning on removing the IF cans to wire those too. The holes to the cans are too small to sleeve the wires coming out of the cans so will take them off to wire those them. Working on tracing the wires from the switch and plug through the filaments to get it all traced as I replace the crumbling wires and verify each wire connection. I was able to sleeve a couple of Zenith 6D614 IF cans because the chassis had enough room going into the cans for 1/8 inch cloth sleeves and they work great. There will be updates as I muddle through it all. I also have a couple of 48-472 Philco radios to work on but the wiring is in pretty good shape. Any suggestions are welcome. I’m kinda new and learning to troubleshoot radios vs modern pcb control boards is becoming a good challenge.




