[Chas]

Shellac or lacquer, the finish performance is practically the same. Both can be built up to enhance grain depth, both can be tinted, both can have an incredible gloss. The one difference if the coating has flattening agent, silica, the finish will for ever be flat or semi-gloss and cannot ever shine. Such a coating will also dull the effect of the grain which is to "flash" the cell structure of the wood so as to make it appear to have glint to the finish.

Either shellac or Lacquer can be "de-glossed" mechanically with powdered (fine) pumice and oil polishing giving that semi-gloss look but still revealing the flash of grain. Levels of gloss can be achieved by polishing with rotten stone and oil. Furniture makers often highlighted finishes by polishing selected areas of wear to enhance authenticity by selectively polishing with rottenstone in larger areas to give the effect of owner care but being able only to reach those large areas with the polish.

Sixty years ago, I re-finished some seven battery radio using cabinet rubbing varnish. I did not have access to lacquer and did not have skills and materials to properly do a shellac finish. To this day the hand rubbed varnish finish looks the same. Slight crazing is evident so there is an aged look.

Philco 70, Thompson Neutrodyne, Splitdorf, a Browning-Drake home-brew in oak, a FADA Neutrodyne kit with a white camphor panel. A Malone-Lemon Neutrodyne with an ebony finish over solid walnut despite the dark wood it still flashes in sunlight. Themyodyne 1-tube kit, A Grebe Syncrophase, even a Music Master wood bell horn. which had extensive re-glue of the wooden petals and hand electroplating of the horn neck. However, the polymerized varnish is brittle and one of the sets has a tiny chip in the finish. Varnish is not as rugged and cannot be "repaired" like Shellac or Lacquer. Yet Shellac is softer and can take minor knock, Lacquer is a little tougher over all but varnish is alcohol proof. That is the choice of Luthiers.

YMMV

Chas