[glyphmon]

Mike,

Thanks for the insight about the probable error on the chassis diagram.  Testing what was marked as #68 yields 18,730 ohms, instead of the 9,000 prescribed.

So that means that these four vary by over 20%:
16 - 51,000 ohms - 89,000 ohms (over by 74.5%)
34 - 400 ohms - 735 ohms (over by 83.8%)
44 - 1,000,000 ohms - 1,500,000 ohms (over by 50.0%)
64 - 9,000 ohms - 18,730 ohms (over by 108.1%)
are the only resistors that you would worry about replacing, correct?

I'm good with that.  My thought to replace all was two-fold: probably not able to tell which ones varied from spec because they were degrading over time/use versus had been that way from the factory; desire to have it as close to originally designed as possible.  That being said, if it is a waste of time/effort/money - and I DON'T have a desire to un-solder and re-solder things in cramped places if unnecessary, I'm perfectly happy to keep originals in place other than these four.

4 - found your guide on the Bakelites - will go from there.  The pictures make that process much less daunting.

5 - the blue wire from the R46-C47 solder strip connection point is the one that runs to the chassis bolt at the corner of the transformer (spliced/taped along the way); the other short wire from the C56-C57 connection point is the one that's dangling, and is, I'm pretty sure the wire I've highlighted in red on the schematic below.  I'm just not sure what the disconnected end is supposed to connect to in the chassis.  What is that unmarked circle it's running to?  I thought it would be part of the power/tone control pot but there are at least two vacant lugs I can see, and not sure that it was even connected before I opened it up.

[attachment=34422] 

Thank you again for your time and patience.

Best wishes,
Roy