[morzh]

Thought of installing the tuning cap back but then decided to take care of the potentiometers first. 
The tone ctl also has the switch, and the switchm when made, was in tens of Ks.

Luckily, it opens easy: the tabs are pushed through the holes and the back cover is pulled out.

   

So this is the inside:

   

I put some F5 on the rheostat (the end of it then started making contact). The pot is wirewound and seems to be 3.7M or so, which is close to the declared.

Now the switch contact group was all black:

   

Some alcohol took care of the soot.
Also there was another problem: when the switch was made, the contact bar would sit above the actual contact bumps. The resistance then would be in a couple of hundred Ohms. The arm that holds it, it has some play and can land plus-minus 60 mils or so; I could push it down manually and this would make the made resistance better.
The arm is fairly soft, so I used fine pliers and bent it a little so it would land the bar a bit closer to the front pot's wall. This seemed to have improve the contact resistance.
I put some D5 on it for good measure.

I also put some F5 into the volume pot which seems to be a replacement type, judging by ribbed shaft. The shaft does not cover the bushing in full, and there is a sizeable opening there, so I sprayed F5 right in.

Then I put the tuning cap in.

   

Should be enough for today, but maybe after dinner (petite sirloin) I don't get too drowsy, then I could do some more fun stuff.