11-02-2011, 11:20 PM
It's a good thing that the dial bezel is in good condition because there are no reproduction ten pushbutton escutcheons available at this time. If it was really bad the only way that I can think of to replace it would be to take two of the reproduction nine pushbutton bezels, cut them, and then to graft them together with the appropriate glue. I don't know what sort of plastic these reproduction bezels are made out of but I'm guessing it's polystyrene, if it is then it is possible to cut two apart to make a ten pushbutton escutcheon, if everything measures out. If the dial of these 42-395 sets is the same width as a 42-380 then it may not work.
One shortcoming that all American Philcos made between 1939 and 42 have is rubber covered wiring where the insulation tends to harden and disintegrate. It isn't too difficult to replace of sleeve this wiring is you are slow and meticulous, but I wouldn't try rewiring a nine tube set as your first restoration project. I would pick up a five tube AC transformer set to practice on as it is closer to your grandfather's radio in design and there is less of a shock hazzard. Some would suggest an AA5 but the power supply works differently then an AC set and U.S AA5s often have a hot chassis where the steel of the chassis is connected directly to one side of the power line, Philco AA5s do not but the chassis are often overcrowded things to work on and frustrating for a beginner.
Regards
Arran
P.S I just looked at the 42-395 and the 42-380 in the gallery again, I think that the knob spacing is different so the cut and graft idea may not work.
One shortcoming that all American Philcos made between 1939 and 42 have is rubber covered wiring where the insulation tends to harden and disintegrate. It isn't too difficult to replace of sleeve this wiring is you are slow and meticulous, but I wouldn't try rewiring a nine tube set as your first restoration project. I would pick up a five tube AC transformer set to practice on as it is closer to your grandfather's radio in design and there is less of a shock hazzard. Some would suggest an AA5 but the power supply works differently then an AC set and U.S AA5s often have a hot chassis where the steel of the chassis is connected directly to one side of the power line, Philco AA5s do not but the chassis are often overcrowded things to work on and frustrating for a beginner.
Regards
Arran
P.S I just looked at the 42-395 and the 42-380 in the gallery again, I think that the knob spacing is different so the cut and graft idea may not work.
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