[Greg Hyduke]

Thanks so much for all that information, ph, and I appreciate your frank assessment.

I hope this link will let people see the photos in full size slide show mode: (I've never used photobucket before.)
http://s1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd52...=slideshow

If there's another better way to let people see the full size photos here, someone please advise: They're all 2048x1356 jpgs. Should I just attach each one? I feel like I'm inside the cabinet the zoom and detail are so good. (I wish I had photos like this that were labeled, especially when I'm looking at the back of the dial and shadowmeter and speaker.)

I'm struggling to understand where the parts you and codefox are referring to (capacitors, resistors, shields, etc) are even located on the chassis, so I definitely need to get a book or some picture of the chassis on-line that has each and every part labeled.

The schematic helped me understand what each of these tubes are for, and now I understand what you meant about only needing one (1) 42 to power it up. And it shows the speaker wiring. But unless I'm missing it, it doesn't identify and show the location of anything else except the tubes.

You mentioned globe tubes. Based on that being descriptive of the shape, it looks like the 37's (DET RECT, DET AMP, and AF) and the 42 (PWR) are all globe tubes. The 44's (RF, IF) and 36 (D. OSC) are not. Is that correct?

Why does the 37 DET AMP have a casing around it? Is this one of the shields you were referring to? Are the other shields missing or is there something peculiar/special about the DET AMP that it requires a shield?

Is the thin metal wall or barrier between the 37 AF and 42 PWR and the missing 42 PWR and 80 RECT also considered a shield?

Similarly, is the curving open box-like thing covering the 44's and the 36 a shield?

Are the Mershon copper capacitors the two canisters immediately to the right of the 37 DET AMP with six holes in a circular pattern in the top of each?

Are the silver canisters the other capacitors? I count 5 of those. Two that look to be the same exact same shape and size to which the 44 RF and the 36 D OSC are wired through a hole in the top that is not dead center. Another one next to those in a row that is the same exact shape and size that is not wired to anything and does not have a hole in the top. And a fourth in that row that is thinner in diameter and shorter that has a hole in the top dead center but not wired to anything. The fifth is smaller than any of those and it's tucked in next to the 44 IF, to which it is wired.

I am guessing that the tiny upright bulb is a light for the shadowmeter. (By the way, I am assuming the reason the dial looks a little low to me when looking at it from the front, through the escutcheon, is because the yellow-y ~3/4 round tuning disk (dial?) with the frequency numbers and graduated marks is warped a little around the edge. If it was in its original shape it would sit closer to the slot in the escutcheon, and therefore appear higher when looking at it from the front. Is my assumption on that correct?)

What is the other bulb? (Appears to be blue or have something blue inside it.)

Where is all the wiring? Under the chassis?

The rust on the chassis and shields (if I am guessing right on what those are) is removable, I think, with baking soda, maybe one of the less harsh solvents, steel wool and elbow grease. The rust I am more intuitively concerned about is the rust on the ribbing of the tuning condenser. Is that bad? Can I go at that rust like the rust on the shields? Or do I need to leave the condenser alone?

The cabinet is structurally sound. It's very solid. I detect no soft spots and see no separations anywhere. When I move it, I carry it around with one hand by the arched spanner at the top of the back.

Thanks for the grille cloth link and pattern number. I found a site called Retro-Tronics that sells a laser cut grille cloth frame (fiberboard) for $20. Do I need to do that from the back? Do I have to remove the chassis and take the speaker cone etc off from inside? Do I just unscrew the two screws I see in the face of the grille? I am fairly confident I can replace the grille cloth if I can figure out how to get to it from the back. That would let me put off the question of restoring it to working condition.

My biggest concern about a restoration is whether or not I can do it myself. The schematic is intimidating and I am trying to reconcile your comments (which are a little more cautious) with codefox's. There's a big difference between "not rocket science" and "if you have any doubts." I have ALOT of doubts. You said that I may not NEED to do anything other than replace the grille cloth (by which I am assuming you were referring to getting it working again), but I don't know how to make that assessment. Replace all the capacitors and resistors and then plug it in again to see if it works?

Finally, some questions from a collectible standpoint: I collect WWII militaria, where originality is prized. Take Willys Jeeps for example, which I own. There are all kinds of reproduction parts available to restore one. But original parts are more desirable and make the Jeep worth more in value. Does it work that way for Philcos? Do serious restorers try to restore as much originality as possible? I don't know that I want to even treat this Model 91B that way; as you say, it's an heirloom, and let's face it, my renewed interest is sudden. But given that it's in fairly good condition and has remained almost completely untouched inside for 79 years, I wouldn't want to do anything stupid that ruined its integrity either, if it matters. (Is the 91B Baby Grand coveted? How rare is it? I am of the unschooled notion they are not common, but not necessarily scarce either.)