03-26-2012, 07:33 PM
I kind of question whether Mr. Eslinger's definition of a restoration constitutes a "restoration". Lets take the speaker reconing just as an example, not only is it unnecessary and a waste of money if the cone is perfect or near perfect but the cones used for replacement seldom match the originals, some even have a foam or rubber surround (hinge). I don't know where he got the part about cones only lasting 10 to 20 years, maybe if it was one with a foam hinge?
Also unless a chassis is rusty or otherwise damaged in some way why do they need to be painted or laquered? Most had a zinc or cadmium plating when they left the factory, with the odd one being painted or copper plated, or like a Stromberg both copper plated and painted. If he really wanted to do it right he would strip the chassis down and send it out to be replated, at the rates he charges you would think he would offer this level of service?
Replacing controls is something that should only be done as a last resort, over the past 20+ years I have only encoutered one control where the resistive element was physically worn out form use. Most of the time when I have to replace a control it's because the shaft is broken off or some knucklehead replaced the original with one of the wrong mechanical or electrical size. Largely the main problem you run into with old controls, other then dirt, is a broken power switch. It just doesn't make sense to replace a control just because it's a little scratchy or is a little bit dirty, unless you find some NOS replacements whatever you put in there will not be an exact match. Recently I hunted through every bin I had just to find a suitable control for a five tube AC/DC radio, that's right an AA5, then I had to cut the shaft down to fit. I can imagine trying to find a replacement wire wound antenna style volume control for an early AC set if it had an odd style of shaft. Replacing controls, particularly volume controls, used to be a bit of a service scam back in the 1950s and 60s, but at least then you could still get OEM replacements from Philco or whomever.
I can tell from his ramble about refinishing that he either does not handle that end of the business or he is using the wrong techniques. No mention of grain filling, tone spray, wood dyes? The decal salvaging part I understand, although again at the rates he charges surely he would get new ones reproduced if they were not available off the shelf.
Really to me this sounds like a soft shoe sales pitch for the laymen who knows little to nothing about old radios, particularly the part about replacing all the tubes with NOS ones. Sure, try replacing a pair of type #50s with NOS ones just for the H%#* of it. I don't know what he does with the tubes he replaces but maybe some dumpster diving is in order. The point is that all this stuff sounds good to the laymen, most people have no idea how a tube radio works just some vague notion that the tubes are the cause of most failures.
Regards
Arran
Also unless a chassis is rusty or otherwise damaged in some way why do they need to be painted or laquered? Most had a zinc or cadmium plating when they left the factory, with the odd one being painted or copper plated, or like a Stromberg both copper plated and painted. If he really wanted to do it right he would strip the chassis down and send it out to be replated, at the rates he charges you would think he would offer this level of service?
Replacing controls is something that should only be done as a last resort, over the past 20+ years I have only encoutered one control where the resistive element was physically worn out form use. Most of the time when I have to replace a control it's because the shaft is broken off or some knucklehead replaced the original with one of the wrong mechanical or electrical size. Largely the main problem you run into with old controls, other then dirt, is a broken power switch. It just doesn't make sense to replace a control just because it's a little scratchy or is a little bit dirty, unless you find some NOS replacements whatever you put in there will not be an exact match. Recently I hunted through every bin I had just to find a suitable control for a five tube AC/DC radio, that's right an AA5, then I had to cut the shaft down to fit. I can imagine trying to find a replacement wire wound antenna style volume control for an early AC set if it had an odd style of shaft. Replacing controls, particularly volume controls, used to be a bit of a service scam back in the 1950s and 60s, but at least then you could still get OEM replacements from Philco or whomever.
I can tell from his ramble about refinishing that he either does not handle that end of the business or he is using the wrong techniques. No mention of grain filling, tone spray, wood dyes? The decal salvaging part I understand, although again at the rates he charges surely he would get new ones reproduced if they were not available off the shelf.
Really to me this sounds like a soft shoe sales pitch for the laymen who knows little to nothing about old radios, particularly the part about replacing all the tubes with NOS ones. Sure, try replacing a pair of type #50s with NOS ones just for the H%#* of it. I don't know what he does with the tubes he replaces but maybe some dumpster diving is in order. The point is that all this stuff sounds good to the laymen, most people have no idea how a tube radio works just some vague notion that the tubes are the cause of most failures.
Regards
Arran
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
