12-26-2012, 06:07 PM
I didn't happen to take any pictures after the re-cap. Sorry about that... There were only two rubber covered wires in the set, which go up to the eye tube. The rest of the wiring was cloth insulated and in good condition. I used some shrink tubing where components were close together, but had plenty of clearance under the chassis for the most part. I installed a 50w power resistor in line to drop the line voltage to about 108V. I used #12 machine screws and nuts to attach it to the chassis. It operates without a hiccup for a couple hours or more most days.
I also needed to replace the tone hooks and the station preset hooks as well as the tone control tabs. I got them from Alan Jesperson's website. They were a bit of a bear to replace. After I removed the tone control assembly, I used a coping saw blade to saw along the phenolic slider and then used a small screwdriver to remove the rest of the hook shaped buttons. A dab of 10 min epoxy and the new ones were in place.
This is another source for them that are considerably cheaper. I have purchased knobs and rubber parts from this outfit, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.
http://renovatedradios.com/parts.html
I also needed to replace the tone hooks and the station preset hooks as well as the tone control tabs. I got them from Alan Jesperson's website. They were a bit of a bear to replace. After I removed the tone control assembly, I used a coping saw blade to saw along the phenolic slider and then used a small screwdriver to remove the rest of the hook shaped buttons. A dab of 10 min epoxy and the new ones were in place.
This is another source for them that are considerably cheaper. I have purchased knobs and rubber parts from this outfit, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.
http://renovatedradios.com/parts.html
One cannot forbid people to be idiots....all one can do is try not to be one. -Morzh