09-05-2007, 11:38 PM
Hello diyahnih. After looking at my riders vol 15 book, (I only found code 122) in print. It is sad JF Riders didnt include a separate "parts-list-by-numbers-with corresponding values" on the Philco model 46-1201 pages. After close inspection of the under chassis photo, with my "reader-glasses on",(Im a old fart), I assertained the following info. Unless I overlooked something, it appears that someone that was not knowledgable has worked on your chassis before. I will explain what I see in the orig schemat.
C 18,19,20 was originally a 3-stage round cardboard type filter (electrolytic-type) filter cap housing all 3 original dry electrolytics in one unit with all (-), The black lead all (-) tied together inside orig caps goes to chassis ground from one-end for all. The other 3 (+) leads are respectively +30uf,+25uf,&+20uf to their respective points on the schemat. If you follow voltage ratings on each individual cap on the orig filters you are replacing, you will be safe on correct voltage tolerances of the orig filter caps.
R7(on riders schematic for this set) .... is not a capacitor at all. According to the photo, it is one of those "old-style" Candohm brand (should be stamped in print on the metal housing) resistors rivited to the side of the chassis that were used in many radios in that era. It should read approx 83 ohms from post-to-post solder points on its top side according to my JF Riders print. Candohm style resistors were'nt the best inventions ever made, but many are still good in the old sets unless they short out (open), or direct short to chassis thru the metal housings holding the resistor inside separated by their orig phenolic paper (grey stiff thin cardboard materials) The "wattage ratings" of the old Candohms varies by size of the originals.
It is AOK to replace a orig .04 uf bypass cap with a .05 as long as the voltage ratings match or exceed orig ratings. Vintage radios are forgiving, so if you dont have the exact matching cap, sub!! (+/- 20% rule)
Hopefully, Ron or Chuck can look up your model 46-1201, and verify. My eyes arent the best anymore, but just trying to help what I can!! Randal
C 18,19,20 was originally a 3-stage round cardboard type filter (electrolytic-type) filter cap housing all 3 original dry electrolytics in one unit with all (-), The black lead all (-) tied together inside orig caps goes to chassis ground from one-end for all. The other 3 (+) leads are respectively +30uf,+25uf,&+20uf to their respective points on the schemat. If you follow voltage ratings on each individual cap on the orig filters you are replacing, you will be safe on correct voltage tolerances of the orig filter caps.
R7(on riders schematic for this set) .... is not a capacitor at all. According to the photo, it is one of those "old-style" Candohm brand (should be stamped in print on the metal housing) resistors rivited to the side of the chassis that were used in many radios in that era. It should read approx 83 ohms from post-to-post solder points on its top side according to my JF Riders print. Candohm style resistors were'nt the best inventions ever made, but many are still good in the old sets unless they short out (open), or direct short to chassis thru the metal housings holding the resistor inside separated by their orig phenolic paper (grey stiff thin cardboard materials) The "wattage ratings" of the old Candohms varies by size of the originals.
It is AOK to replace a orig .04 uf bypass cap with a .05 as long as the voltage ratings match or exceed orig ratings. Vintage radios are forgiving, so if you dont have the exact matching cap, sub!! (+/- 20% rule)
Hopefully, Ron or Chuck can look up your model 46-1201, and verify. My eyes arent the best anymore, but just trying to help what I can!! Randal
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