[49Stude63]

LOL no you didn't create a firestorm, and with with rebuilding anything cars, old radios how you do it is up to you since that is your car/radio. On the next topic how to rebuild the electrolytic cans, http://www.philcorepairbench.com/tips/svctip46.htm Here is a service tip from Chuck's site and what you noted about the new lytic being 10uf rather than 8uf is not a problem just make sure the rated voltage is at least equal 450=450 in some case Philco used 500V lytics and you should use the same or better voltage rating for the replacement. On the tip her is if yours lytic can has a paper sleeve it is easy to hide the cut but if you have the free standing center nut mount lytic cans then purchase some shiney metallic duct tape (usually Ace has it) and this can be used to tape the joint, while noticable since you don't have the paper sleeve it is probably easier then cutting the top off and soldering the top back on. If you drill out the rivets that hold the spiral aluminum then you can connect the Positive to the aluminum shaft via a small round headed bolt and nut and then drill a small hole somewhere in the base of the can and run your negative to chassis ground. Your connections all depend on the style of can but since you mention only two uf's 8 & 16 more than likely it has two cans on the chassis and most are center screw base with a nut mount to the chassis. And yes the negative arrow connection is negative but depending on the circuit may not always be connected directly to the chassis ground.