[49Stude63]

One thing to remember on the bakelite blocks once you rebuild them then there is no more mystery since if you remove the screw and turn them upside down then the caps or resistors are clear for anyone to see. If I use yellow mylars I position the values so the are clear to see once the block is unbolted from the chassis. Then the circuits match what the user would see if they are using philco repair data. I also put a copy of the schematics in with the radio under the chassis or in an envelope and note what was done so 20-40 yrs from now if someone has to repair it again everything is there will clears descriptions on what was done, I have done the hard work (rebuilding the blocks originally) and all they would need to do is de-solder the bad cap and solder in a new one. I like to keep the originality of the radio if possible, even for details like grille cloth, type of finish (lacquer) correct as possible color scheme etc. I even go to the effort to use the correct tube type G style vs GT or metal style tubes but again that is always up the the person doing the restore. For any newbie it is always nice to know and understand the various possibilities and they can decide which or what method they want to choose. In the future I look for more information to be available than it is now if the antique radio hobby continues to thrive. It may be in 20-30 yrs that this hobby may be all but dead since the once doing it now are no longer around the the younger people don't see it as a viable hobby. Those type of trends are hard to predict so making it easier for the next guy is not an overwhelming concern for me since it may be 30-50 yrs before the radio needs a repair again since the amount of listening a user does now will never come close to the amount of "on" time that the radio was exposed to when it was new or in it's prime in the 30-50's when radios were the basic entertainment.