02-03-2008, 04:44 PM
Welcome, Harlan!
A Type 41 is identical to a 6K6 save for the pinout. These links may help you in this regard:
http://www.nj7p.info/Tube.php
http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/tubesearch.php
The negative lead of electrolytic 21B connects to B-, NOT ground. The negative lead of electrolytic 21A also does NOT connect to ground; it connects to the junction of the 28 and 26 ohm sections of B-C resistor (77). The 8 uF section, 21, has a negative lead which DOES connect to ground.
Only sections 21 and 21A share a common negative since both negative leads of these two are grounded. Not so with section 21B; it must have a separate negative lead, connecting to B-, else the set will hum.
The original electrolytic can surely was replaced some time over the past 67 years. You can remove the "guts" from the old can and stuff new components inside, or hang the new electrolytics individually under the chassis. It makes a neater job if you restuff the can, however.
Tone control: Check suppliers such as Digi-Key and Mouser; the control need not be 6 meg., 4 or 5 meg. will work also. As for the volume control; you'll either need to find a junk Philco set of the 1940s era (one of the larger ones with a tapped volume control), or see Mark Oppat for a new unit.
You have a real headache on your hands if you have to replace or resleeve rubber-covered wiring AND clean up rust. You might be better off finding another chassis. Not long ago, someone had one of these up for grabs on eBay.
Good luck.
A Type 41 is identical to a 6K6 save for the pinout. These links may help you in this regard:
http://www.nj7p.info/Tube.php
http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/tubesearch.php
The negative lead of electrolytic 21B connects to B-, NOT ground. The negative lead of electrolytic 21A also does NOT connect to ground; it connects to the junction of the 28 and 26 ohm sections of B-C resistor (77). The 8 uF section, 21, has a negative lead which DOES connect to ground.
Only sections 21 and 21A share a common negative since both negative leads of these two are grounded. Not so with section 21B; it must have a separate negative lead, connecting to B-, else the set will hum.
The original electrolytic can surely was replaced some time over the past 67 years. You can remove the "guts" from the old can and stuff new components inside, or hang the new electrolytics individually under the chassis. It makes a neater job if you restuff the can, however.
Tone control: Check suppliers such as Digi-Key and Mouser; the control need not be 6 meg., 4 or 5 meg. will work also. As for the volume control; you'll either need to find a junk Philco set of the 1940s era (one of the larger ones with a tapped volume control), or see Mark Oppat for a new unit.
You have a real headache on your hands if you have to replace or resleeve rubber-covered wiring AND clean up rust. You might be better off finding another chassis. Not long ago, someone had one of these up for grabs on eBay.
Good luck.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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