11-21-2013, 07:15 PM
Today I removed C78 and C77. C78 was a Cornell Dublier replacement from some time in the past. Whoever installed it put the screw head of the hardware on the mounting clamp against the left side of the bracket that supports the control and push-button assembly. Because of that I found it very difficult to remove C78. I finally clipped the leads going to the volume and tone control and removed the control assembly. Mice had already chewed the wires going to the push-button coils. The bottom end of C78 had a cardboard sleeve between the can surface and the inside of the holding bracket.
I cut C78 and C77 open using a tubing cutter after removal from the chassis. C77 was the original Philco wet type capacitor. C78 had a large nut and washer on its bottom and the plastic threaded stud broke off as I was unscrewing the nut. I will have to use some epoxy to glue it back together. The internal parts of C78 were embedded in a hard wax or tar material. I had to use a hair drier to soften it enough to get the capacitor element out. I used a 3 inch long deck screw to pull it out.
C77 was completely dried out when I opened it up. I did find that a 1 inch PVC tube fit snugly inside this electrolytic's can, so that will be used to provide strength when the capacitor shell is put back together with a new axial lead electrolytic inside. The + and - leads will be brought out through the hole left in the bottom part of the old capacitor shell when it is remounted in the chassis.
I cleaned off the chassis where the two electrolytics and the control bracket had been. New rubber grommets will be needed for the control assembly mounting to the chassis when it goes back together.
I cut C78 and C77 open using a tubing cutter after removal from the chassis. C77 was the original Philco wet type capacitor. C78 had a large nut and washer on its bottom and the plastic threaded stud broke off as I was unscrewing the nut. I will have to use some epoxy to glue it back together. The internal parts of C78 were embedded in a hard wax or tar material. I had to use a hair drier to soften it enough to get the capacitor element out. I used a 3 inch long deck screw to pull it out.
C77 was completely dried out when I opened it up. I did find that a 1 inch PVC tube fit snugly inside this electrolytic's can, so that will be used to provide strength when the capacitor shell is put back together with a new axial lead electrolytic inside. The + and - leads will be brought out through the hole left in the bottom part of the old capacitor shell when it is remounted in the chassis.
I cleaned off the chassis where the two electrolytics and the control bracket had been. New rubber grommets will be needed for the control assembly mounting to the chassis when it goes back together.