06-08-2008, 10:19 AM
Hi
You can do it, and it really isn't that difficult. Before you begin, take a look at the schematic here:
http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/images/87.jpg
Notice it includes a diagram of the filter condenser can, The terminals are shown as you are looking at the bottom of the can, at the terminals. Notice also that I included a + to indicate the positive side if you choose to use electrolytics to replace the old paper caps. A lot of the guys prefer to use new mylar caps but there is no reason you can't use electrolytics if you wish.
Just remember, if you use electrolytics to replace the 1 and 2 uF caps, use new caps rated at 450 WVDC. If you decide to use mylar (which you will be using to replace the 0.1 and .015 uF caps), use replacements rated at 600 or 630 WVDC.
You will need to remove all of the connections to the filter condenser can. Make sure you make lots of notes, sketch drawings, whatever it takes so that you remember which wire connects to what terminal before you remove anything!!!
Now remove the four screws that hold the can to the chassis, and remove the can. Pull the bottom piece off (which includes the terminal board and the metal frame which holds the terminal board). Cut the wires and set this part aside.
In all likelihood, you will have to heat the can with a torch in order to melt out the tar block and allow the insides to come out. I do not recommend using an oven for this, it is a very smelly procedure. You should hold the can with a Vise Grip; clamp the Vise Grip onto a rim of the can, and hold the Vise Grip with a thick glove or oven mitt as the can (and the Vise Grip) will get very hot!
Once the tar melts enough, you can turn it upside down and shake it a bit; eventually, the innards will slowly fall out.
If you can manage to construct a jig to hold the can facing downward with enough room for the insides to fall out on their own, that would be a better and safer way.
Once you have the insides out of the can, let it cool, then clean it up and repaint the outside with black spray paint. Now clean up the terminal board and, using the diagram provided in the link above, rebuild your filter can.
When you have the new caps installed, reattach the terminal board and frame to the bottom of the can, and reinstall in the radio.
That's all there is to it.
You can do it, and it really isn't that difficult. Before you begin, take a look at the schematic here:
http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/images/87.jpg
Notice it includes a diagram of the filter condenser can, The terminals are shown as you are looking at the bottom of the can, at the terminals. Notice also that I included a + to indicate the positive side if you choose to use electrolytics to replace the old paper caps. A lot of the guys prefer to use new mylar caps but there is no reason you can't use electrolytics if you wish.
Just remember, if you use electrolytics to replace the 1 and 2 uF caps, use new caps rated at 450 WVDC. If you decide to use mylar (which you will be using to replace the 0.1 and .015 uF caps), use replacements rated at 600 or 630 WVDC.
You will need to remove all of the connections to the filter condenser can. Make sure you make lots of notes, sketch drawings, whatever it takes so that you remember which wire connects to what terminal before you remove anything!!!
Now remove the four screws that hold the can to the chassis, and remove the can. Pull the bottom piece off (which includes the terminal board and the metal frame which holds the terminal board). Cut the wires and set this part aside.
In all likelihood, you will have to heat the can with a torch in order to melt out the tar block and allow the insides to come out. I do not recommend using an oven for this, it is a very smelly procedure. You should hold the can with a Vise Grip; clamp the Vise Grip onto a rim of the can, and hold the Vise Grip with a thick glove or oven mitt as the can (and the Vise Grip) will get very hot!
Once the tar melts enough, you can turn it upside down and shake it a bit; eventually, the innards will slowly fall out.
If you can manage to construct a jig to hold the can facing downward with enough room for the insides to fall out on their own, that would be a better and safer way.
Once you have the insides out of the can, let it cool, then clean it up and repaint the outside with black spray paint. Now clean up the terminal board and, using the diagram provided in the link above, rebuild your filter can.
When you have the new caps installed, reattach the terminal board and frame to the bottom of the can, and reinstall in the radio.
That's all there is to it.
--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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