Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 42 380 Hums well but does not know the words
#4

Hello David B, Welcome! I took a quick look at the JF Riders schematic for the Philco mod 42-380 parts list.
It shows that the set originally had 2 electrolytic condensers mounted in one unit. IE: 2 separate leads from 1 electrolytic can chassis-mount type
condenser. Negative polarity of orig electrolytics is most probably the orig tubular can (if still mounted to chassis, to chassis ground itself?). If someone replaced the electrolytics before under chassis, you will probably see 2 separate larger-size old cardboard type tubular replacements with a ( +) end on them both.
The JF Riders schematic shows both orig Philco electrolytic condensers for your set were the same value in ufs, and same voltage rating. IE: 2 electrolytic condensers rated at 8uf @ 475 volts.
Good modern day subs would be: (2) individual 10ufs@500 volts electrolytics types replacement condensers. Closely observe polarity +/- on the old caps installed, and if both (-) ends go to chassis ground, sub in the new (+) ends from each electrolytic to their respective solder locations (+) ends of the old electrolytics caps installed now, twist together both the negative leads, (follow printed arrows) for neg ends of both new caps, and solder them to chassis. Remove the old electrolytic caps one at a time by subbing-in the new ones. Unless your chassis has a "floating isolated ground for the new caps (-) side, you should be "hum-free", and safe to bring the set back to life. Check a schematic first for free at: http://www.nostalgiaair.org .
Good luck restoring your Philco!! Icon_wink


Messages In This Thread
[No subject] - by mandh - 08-15-2008, 11:12 PM
[No subject] - by David B - 08-15-2008, 11:44 PM
[No subject] - by Texasrocker - 08-16-2008, 01:58 AM
[No subject] - by David B - 08-16-2008, 07:30 AM
[No subject] - by Ron Ramirez - 08-16-2008, 08:38 AM
[No subject] - by David B - 08-16-2008, 06:50 PM



Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Road Trip for a Philco 46-480
Haha, thank you sir!jrblasde — 10:35 PM
Philco model 40-100
Arran, that is very true. I have 2 Mantola 419 4 tube battery sets. One is totally unrestored other than the electroly...MrFixr55 — 10:03 PM
Philco model 40-100
Hi Marion, Great solution to the problem. Of course, they did not have LEDs "back in the day". Just test...MrFixr55 — 09:51 PM
Road Trip for a Philco 46-480
Great Job Joseph! :clap: :clap: :clap:   Grab another and get started, Big Dog!MrFixr55 — 09:45 PM
Philco model 40-100
Thanks Arran and MrFixer55 for your input regarding my post. I think I will just fix the on/off flag in place so that it...mhamby — 07:19 PM
Philco model 38 code 121 not receiving signal.
Thank you for the reply Arran. I will do as you suggest and report back.Stormlord5500 — 03:34 PM
Studebaker/Philco AC-2687 car radio
Arran, Thanks for digging into your radio library. The Studebaker radio model is AC-2687/S5524. It has a power/ speaker...Pdouglaski — 02:04 PM
Philco Battery-WWII vintage
Yep. It had handles on either side, and it took two reasonably strong men to carry it. We had that Soviet FIAT 500 c...morzh — 11:45 AM
PT-6 finished!!
I’ll get on doing that and see what happens. Just to keep this all in one thread - Anyone know what length/size is u...bridkarl — 10:01 AM
Zenith H725
Hello Ed, Well done on your part anyway that radio uses neon bulbs ? Sincerely richardradiorich — 09:43 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 2673 online users. [Complete List]
» 3 Member(s) | 2670 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatarAvatar

>