[Arran]

Sometimes I will restuff a cardboard tube electrolytic, even if it is under the chassis, just for neatness of installation. It's very easy to group two or more radial lead electrolytics together, then to add some wire leads for the negative and two positives, a little heat shrink tubing where necessary, and then to wedge it all into an old cardboard capacitor tube followed by hot melt glue.
These days it's harder to find a good selection of good quality electrolytics with axial leads then it does to find radial lead ones, so you can either stuff the radial lead one into an old capacitor can or tube with wire leads, or install a terminal strip to mount them on, again with wire leads. Or if you are lucky find a place under a tube socket, or an existing terminal strip, to install them.
Getting back to the 6X5s, I'm not sure that there really was a problem with the 6X5Gs, the only sets that I have heard of having problems with 6X5Gs or 6X5s of any sort were some of the 1940 brand Z models, particularly the 10 and 12 models that used 6X5s in pairs, and with marginal power transformers, to power things like push pull 6V6s and 6F6s. So was it the 6X5s that were the problem or is it that the Order of the Big Black Dial fanboys don't want to admit the Commander "Used Car Dealer" Macdonald and company came up with a poorly thought out power supply design in the name of tube stuffing a chassis? I've never heard of any problems associated with 6X5GTs at all, though some claim they are equally suspect. In the case of Philco 42-380s I think they used either 41s or 6K6s in the power output stage, which are lower current tubes originally designed for car radio use, and the plate voltages are well bellow the maximums for a 6X5.
Regards
Arran