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Getting the 16B Working
#2

I always "extricate" the old Philco orig bakelite blocks when electronically restoring vintage Philco & AK "coded" orig chassis components. I replace them with terminal-strips to mount new caps ( fully visable for the next tech to deal with yrs later), and therefore never have these grounding type probs. Keeping "authencity" hidden under these chassis is for the purists generally speaking? Does it really add any "value" to these sets? Does it ad probs re-building & re-installing orig bakelite cap blocks sometimes? Very glad you found the prob in your recap- restoration, and corrected it! Seems we have all learned something here all over again? Icon_wink


Messages In This Thread
Getting the 16B Working - by radiomikee - 02-03-2009, 12:59 PM
Re: Getting the 16B Working - by Texasrocker - 02-04-2009, 02:43 AM
Re: Getting the 16B Working - by etech - 02-04-2009, 07:40 AM
Re: Getting the 16B Working - by radiomikee - 02-04-2009, 09:03 AM
Re: Getting the 16B Working - by Arran - 02-05-2009, 06:15 PM
Re: Getting the 16B Working - by Ron Ramirez - 02-05-2009, 10:40 PM
Re: Getting the 16B Working - by AI2V - 02-05-2009, 10:58 PM
Re: Getting the 16B Working - by Texasrocker - 02-05-2009, 11:55 PM
Re: Getting the 16B Working - by radiomikee - 02-06-2009, 11:20 PM



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