[klondike98]

Moving along... doing an easy job first by reconstructing the pilot lamp.  Ron has instructions to do this in the Tech Section.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jgyasa90u9ghnp....jpg?raw=1]

Started stuffing the electrolytics.  I've stuffed this type before but the previous time they were missing the positive terminal lug.  This time they are still intact so here's a set of photos for how I stuff 'em.  This will be old hat to many but perhaps some folks haven't seen it done.  There are other ways  to do this I'm sure.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/l6w22ofjckfjgx....jpg?raw=1] I cut off the top of the can using a utility knife.  I place the can on the workbench and roll the can under the knife blade working my way around the can.  I places a dent in the can at first but after a few revolutions the blade penetrates the can.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/le3kgcaqgp6mzc....jpg?raw=1] Pull the guts out.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/r39zay9t06j4km....jpg?raw=1] Next I work the lug off of the aluminum rod.  It is press fit on and with some effort you can get the utility knife blade worked in and pry it off.  BE CAREFULL--easy to slip and cut yourself on this step!!!  Wear leather gloves and safety glasses.  
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qdgubf94lrkakm....jpg?raw=1]  Pull the aluminum rod out of the can with a little twisting and pulling.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/sp88g2eo24x4vm....jpg?raw=1]  Drill a hole in the bottom of the can to allow the negative lead for the cap to come through.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4kgnlzdwbtrw5t....jpg?raw=1]  Get your new cap, a piece of heavy gauge copper wire (or you can reuse the aluminum rod but you can not solder to aluminum so you have to use a screw to fasten the positive lead to the rod), and some hook up wire with about 2" stripped on one end and a 1/4" on the other
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4dtilvftwuvmk....jpg?raw=1]  Attach the electrolytic cap's positive lead to the copper wire and the negative lead to the hook up wire at the 1/4" stripped end.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jc24j2d146t6a9....jpg?raw=1]  I wrap the assembly with electrical tape to give it some stability and keep the wires steady.  You could pot it as well.  then feed the hook up wire through the hole you drilled and the copper wire through the center hole in the can.  Wrap the 2" of hook up wire around the base of the can.  This will make contact with the chassis for ground (or if the can connects to the transformer center tap there will be some rubber washers that keep the can off the chassis but the hookup wire will still be in contact with the can so you can connect the can as the cap negative to the center tap.)  Then I recrimp the lug onto the copper wire.  Needle nose pliers will start the crimping but I then used some wire cutters to press a deeper crimping indent at the top and bottom of the lug.  Hopefully it will stay.  Then I check the set up to ensure there isn't a short in the assembly.  I'll glue the top back on the can with some JB Weld after the radio is working again.

I hate it when someone's been in the set and soldered over the little wire holes in the bakelite blocks.  This one is the line bypass filter.  The bumblebee  cap will be replaced with a restuffed philco cap.
[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/q70fmaa8tfm87e....jpg?raw=1] 

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/uyh9k2fryqv7cm....jpg?raw=1]  It cleaned up pretty well.

[Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxipkeylmzmlbd....jpg?raw=1]  ....and now is reinstalled along with the restuffed Philco paper caps.   That fried resistor mess is next.