[morzh]

Funny thing,

That #29 dual cap that bypasses the hum bucking trimpot in the filamen supply says "dual 0.25uF".
The sch shows them each being 0.5uF.
Whn measured one was 0.46uF and the other 0.64uF.
This is closer to 0.5uF value but then these caps are known to increase in value when ageing.
I fgured this is not overly important so put in two 0.47uF.
I decided not to open tnis dual can as it involves unsoldering the seams and this is unnecessary: done that to a can in AK808 but then there was like 6 caps in there.
I hid the two behind the can so they are not readily seen.

Tomorrow will attempt to open the large can. I did that before with 111 chassis and that wasn't too bad: I didn't scrape it much or warp it and was able to keep the terminal board. With some luck I could repeat it.

[morzh]

After watching Buzz' video where he extracts the cap can and has to demo!ish the panel to get inside it, I decided to tinker with it.
In about 10 minutes with some patience I was able to produce this result:

   
   

Now to emptying the can. I hope it is the same as with 111, which proved to be a bit easier than 20.
I didn't use boiling water then.

[Radioroslyn]

Buzz tore that thing up!!! [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...n_evil.gif]   So Mike the $64 question IS are you a melter or a freezer????

[morzh]

I'm not sure. I try to not belong to clubs

From my experience, I'm a picker.

Never tried freezing, might as well.

[Radioroslyn]

I'm a melter. Nothing like the smell of hot tar throughout the house!  [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...n_razz.gif]
Was a picker but melting gets the job done. Like on AK p/s.
Like you I  haven't tried the freezing thing. Sound cold, I don't like cold.

[morzh]

I'd be a melter has it not been for other people present in my household who would likely disapprove and likely loud at that.

[morzh]

My strategy will bee to really feeze it overnight, with the large screw (the one I bought for the same purpose for 111) fully in.
Then I will attempt briefly immerse it into boiling water, using the screw as the handle.

My hope is that the thin metall shell wil quickly heat up and expand while the frozen tar block will remain frozen, and the two will separate. I think I should hear some clicks and pings while this is happening. Not more than a few seconds.
If it works, that will be a good technique to empty these boxes.

I don't think there is a danger of sputtering or explosion with this.

Another way is heat it with a gun but somehow I think it is not going to be efficient.

[morzh]

I tried it with over 3hrs freszing and boiling pot.....no, nope, no dice.
OK, will try tomorrow again.

[Ron Ramirez]

Another way is heat it with a gun but somehow I think it is not going to be efficient.

That's what I do. It is slow, inefficient, and smelly (best done outdoors)...but it always works.

[WyTex]

My radio shop is in separate garage so I've clamped it to a vice and heated it. Then used a small flex joint knife to separate the tar from the metal, and vice grips on the wires pulled it all out at once. 

Paul

[morzh]

I don't have an outside facility with power. And the family with two kids and wife won't like the railroad smell all over the place.
And the weather is just freezing now so working outside is little pleasure.

Will have to get by with what I've got somehow.

[morzh]

This can is an entransigent lil'bugger. I have emptied 4 cans, a 20, another 20, a 16 anda a 111. But this one was refuses to be disemboweled.
I might try heating when it is warmer outside.

[EdHolland]

Drop it in hot/boiling water? This would limit the over heating, and the smell that would cause. Just a thought.

[morzh]

This is what I am thinking about, the family around is the stopping thought and I do not have a hotplate down in the basement.

After watching Buzz' video, I saw that he still had to pick it out after boiling. Though it might be easier.

[EdHolland]

Hmm. Can you slide a thin knife blade, or something between the case and the contents to separate them?