[WyTex]

Superb!

[Ron Ramirez]

Thanks Mike (and WyTex).

I cheated

Philco did one, and ONLY ONE, under-chassis drawing for two of these Transitone models - the 42-KR3 and 42-KR5. I used that and modified it to fit the TP-5-I.

I used Paint Shop Pro 4.14 which dates back to 1997 but still works in Windows 10.

[morzh]

 

[Ron Ramirez]

This evening I sat down at the workbench to try and start rewiring this radio. (Actually, the other night, I did rewire the heater string.)

But I soon had to quit as I discovered several errors in the under-chassis diagram I had made for this set.

Here is a corrected version:

   

I also corrected my other post where the original, incorrect version of this drawing was posted - post #14, page 1, this thread.



I'll try to work on this again tomorrow.

One more thing. I have a PT-33 chassis which I was going to use to go by as I redid this chassis just in case I ran into any issues. Wouldn't you know it, I dropped it as I was removing it from the shelf to take to the workbench - destroying the PT-33's speaker cone in the process.

[rfeenstra]

Stuff happens!  Done similar things myself.  Made it home safely after having to run through a wet snow blizzard N of Indy!  Cleared out N of Kokomo, thank goodness.  Thank you Ron and Debbie for your hospitality!!!!

[Ron Ramirez]

Rob, great to meet you yesterday. And glad you made it home safely in spite of the crazy weather.

Now...

Let the rebuild begin.

   

2nd IF rewired. The 1st IF (not shown) has also been rewired.

   

After some under-chassis wiring had been added.

[Ron Ramirez]

After a little more work...

   

It's slowly beginning to look like the underside of a radio again. I removed the 1st IF transformer as I plan to grind away the lip which once held a strain relief for the AC cord in place, and use a rubber grommet there instead to protect the new AC cord which will be installed toward the end of the rewiring project.

I've installed one new capacitor so far, and no, I did not restuff an original cap. These chassis are already so jam-packed that this one will only benefit by having a bit more free space from not restuffing old caps.

You can see by looking at the schematic below how far I have progressed in the rewiring. Highlighted areas indicate new wiring and components.

   

More to come...

[Ron Ramirez]

And another thing:

I noticed that my under-chassis drawing had another error. (I'm surprised no one else noticed it.) The drawing had two part (18)s. I've corrected both the drawing on post 14, page 1, this thread and the one in post 19, this page, this thread. Now the drawing has a (15) and an (18) as it should.

[Ron Ramirez]

After several days away from the workbench, I went back to it today and made a lot of progress on the TP-5-I.

Much of the new wiring is in place, along with many of the components including both IF transformers.

   

The highlights on the schematic below give you a better idea of what I have accomplished so far, and what remains to be done.

   

Oh, and before doing any wiring or installing any components today, I ground down the lip where the power cord enters and installed a rubber grommet in place of the lip so the power cord won't be damaged by the hole in the chassis for the cord.

[Ron Ramirez]

More progress.

   

The oscillator coil is back in place (actually, a good oscillator coil from a PT-26 parts chassis). A few more wires added.

The speaker is mounted to the chassis once again but I have not yet hooked it up.

As it happens I found that I am out of 20 uF electrolytics so I ordered some from Mouser. I also ordered enough small gauge stranded wire to replace the original 20 foot antenna lead wire as the original wire was in bad shape.

So this is where we are at now:

   

Now it's time to wait for the electrolytics and the new antenna wire. I really should test the tubes while I wait...

[Ron Ramirez]

Now a test to see if anyone's reading this thread:

How would you cure sticking pushbuttons?

This TP-5-I uses the same pushbutton assembly as many smaller 1939-1940 Philco models. I've sprayed the insides with WD-40 and that helped, but some of the pushbuttons still stick when another button is pressed.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

You need something that will dissolve old dried up oil, grease, grime or whatever else gets into the button assembly. I start out with...believe it or not... Gumout carb / choke / parts cleaner. Spray the controls good with that and work each button. It evaporates quickly which is good. Then you can follow up with contact cleaner and finally some WD-40 for lube.

[Ron Ramirez]

Hmmm...Gumout carb/choke/parts cleaner. I would not have thought of that one. Thanks Greg!

I guess I should pick some up now while I wait for the Mouser order and the separate order for the antenna wire...

[NostalgiaRadioTime]

I've been using it for years on radios. Works good to flush out dirt in a tuning capacitor and also for cleaning dirty grimy chassis. I take one of those 1/4 or 3/8" thick dark green scouring pads like you probably have by your kitchen sink, spray some Gumout on the pad and work it over the chassis. Follow up by spraying some on a rag and just wipe off the grime the scouring pad got loose. Obviously it won't do anything to remove rust but if you just have a dirty dusty chassis it works well.

[madsowry]

Brake cleaner works good too to get rid of old grease and gummed up oil. It also evaporates very quickly.  Also if your windshield wipers are smeary,  spray some brake cleaner on a rag or paper towel and wipe the blades.  Cleans them up in a heart beat.

Dick