[Jamie]

If you need finer grit sand paper, go to the auto parts store. Big box hardware stores don't carry much real fine paper. 250 should be ok. Try it and see if it leaves marks in your veneer. If so, go finer.

[Geoff]

I have multiple grades going all the way up to 1200 on hand. The tricky part is cutting through the wood filler without cutting through the veneer. Last time I used DAP I used 80 grit but I did not have veneer to contend with. I'm sure the 250 will work but it will just take a lot longer to knock it down to the level of the veneer.

Thanks!

- Geoff

[Jamie]

Gotta use a small sanding block. That DAP dries real hard I think... it's tough to get it level without sanding into the veneer.

[Geoff]

Just wanted to post an update on where I'm at right now. There was a small area where the side in the back was separating from the arch support. This was easy enough to fix with some wood glue and a clamp:

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

Once this was done I finished with the wood filling. I actually went through the process of filling voids and sanding three times. I’d do it once and then find some other smaller spot that I overlooked. Then again and find another small spot that was overlooked. As of last night I’m totally done with filling and everything is nice and smooth.

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

The next steps are to try and secure the Philco 640 label on the inside. This label is crumbling and starting to fall off in many places. My plan is to go in with a small brush and glue and try and re-adhere the label where it is coming off. Once dry I will cover the label (and another label on the inside that has the run #) with something and then clean out the inside of the cabinet a little more. I will follow the cleaning with a coat of black oil stain. Once dry I will begin the grain filling process. I’ve done a LOT of reading and watching YouTube videos covering the topic of grain filling and found it almost sounds like no two people follow the same process. Very frustrating for a novice like me. As I see it right now I have three options moving forward:

Option #1
- Stain the cabinet with Walnut stain
- Apply a sealer such as sanding sealer
- Apply the grain filler (I’ll be using Pore-O-Pac)
- Apply another coat of sealer
- Apply a mist coat of clear before moving onto the toned colors

Option #2
- DO NOT stain the cabinet
- Apply a sealer such as sanding sealer
- Apply the grain filler (I’ll be using Pore-O-Pac)
- Apply another coat of sealer
- Apply a mist coat of clear before moving onto the toned colors

Option #3
- DO NOT stain the cabinet
- Apply the grain filler (I’ll be using Pore-O-Pac)
- Apply a sealer such as sanding sealer
- Apply a mist coat of clear before moving onto the toned colors

The above were based on various recommendations from the manufacturer of the grain filler, various posts here, and videos from YouTube. Right now I am leaning towards Option #3 but invite feedback from others on what they recommend. I’ve got plenty of time before making a final decision.

- Geoff

[Steve Davis]

Geoff, no question about it, go with option number 2.

Every thing you have done so far looks very good.

Steve

[Geoff]

Thanks Steve. For Option #2, should I do a light sanding with 320 grit after the first coat of sanding sealer, prior to the application of grain filler? Or just leave it as is?

[Steve Davis]

I would give the sanding sealer a very light sanding (don't sand through) and a good wipe down before applying the grain filler.

Steve

[Jamie]

I don't use sanding sealer, so that's up to you. And there is no need to apply clear before toning. All that will do is give your toner the tendency to have runs. Whatever you do, don't use stain.

[Geoff]

Will do. I'll use 320 grit and then wipe down with cheesecloth.

[Jamie]

Be sure to cut that pore-o-pac with mineral spirits before you use it. Make it like thick paint. And once more, applying clear before toner is just a waste of clear and will make it easier to get runs in the toner.

If this is your first time, I highly recommend you get some Mohawk Blender flow out. It is like spray thinner... if you get a run, or a hair floats into your finish... you use the blender flow out to add drying time and make the lacquer flow over the mistake... or in the case of a small run, flow out into the surrounding lacquer. It will save you from stripping and starting over. It is insurance in a can.

[Geoff]

Thanks for the tips and I'll make sure I get the Mohawk Blender Flow out!

- Geoff

[Geoff]

Also, I know Radio Daze sells the decals but there was some controversy awhile back about the authenticity of some of the Philco logos. Which decal set should I get for the 640?

- Geoff

[Jamie]

This is the one I use... I use the smaller decals on the sheet..

http://www.radiodaze.com/product/6048.aspx

[Jamie]

Just to keep you from cursing me when you use the Blender Flow Out - Use it sparingly! A tiny spritz goes a long way. If you spray too much, it kind of causes a "bald spot", where the color is thin. Create a toner run on a scrap board and practice once before you start the radio. It's easy and you'll see what I mean.

[Steve Davis]

Geoff, I do recommend that you do use clear lacquer before toner. I would spray about three coats of clear and sand. The idea is to have a smooth surface before you before you begin spraying the toner because you must not sand the toner. If you sand the toner, you will have an uneven color. After the toner, apply your decal and clear coat.

Radio Daze DCL-PH8 would be the correct decal for your radio.

Steve