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Philco 610
#31

Jim, your capacitor is probably a mica-mold. At some point in time "they" sold a capacitor that was meant to look like a mica cap but was made of paper and foil just like the paper/wax ones.

You can clean a tuning capacitor with electronics spray cleaners depending on what's attached to the plates. Some radios spent a lot of time in the kitchen collecting a layer of oils and grease. Only way to get rid of that is to send it back to the kitchen for a session with the dishwasher. Some use a brake cleaner spray, nasty. Something else you want to look at is if it has been mounted on grommets they may be hard or cracked, best to replace them. Of course the hardest part of removing the tuning capacitor is restringing the dial cord.
#32

I read about some people using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean variable condensers. I bought one, the kind used for jewelry pieces. Its container is big enough to handle a large, 3 section tuning condenser. You fill it with hot water and a little dish soap, put in your condenser, turn it on, and wait a while. After a half hour or so you have a nice clean condenser. Just be sure to rinse it well, and then dry it well at the end of the process, and lubricate all the bearings for the shaft.
#33

I use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean up my tuning condensers and I have settled on Simple Green aluminum safe cleaner. Some soaps can remove brass plating, ask me how I know. Follow Mikes directions above and they come out looking and working like new.

Gregb
#34

Jim if you decide to wash the tuning capacitor, be careful of the mica compression trimmers at the top. You really don't want to have water collect between the plates and not be able to dry quickly.

I really don't remember their exact style, but release the tension with the adjusting screw or nut so there is plenty of space between the movable plate and mica so there is an air gap. If possible remove the mica sheet entirely and put in a safe place for reassembly.
#35

Thanks for the help!
#36

Speaking of the mica pieces used in trimmer condensers, you are right, it is best to remove them before getting the thing wet. I remember a trick our fearless leader Ron mentioned a few years ago, and which I have used successfully. Save the thick, clear plastic used to package some thing like baked goods, or anything, the kind that is heat shrunk on a mold to the desired shape. Cut out the flat parts, and fashion replacement insulators for the trimmer from that. It works a treat.
#37

Replace the mica with plastic sheet? Wonder if that will work on my nightmare 89? Already tried to rewind and bake the mixer coil.

"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis

Best Regards, 

MrFixr55
#38

Hello Jim,
Here is Photo of my Philco before I refinished it !

Sincerely Richard


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#39

Wow. I was going to make a comment on the paint job but I am new at the sight.
#40

Hi Rich, You've probably already done so, but I suggest you remove the bezel before you go any further. That way you can clean the whole front and not have any telltale paint lurking in the corners. You may have to use paint thinner or stripper to clean off the edges of the bezel if it got paint on it. Fortunately it's metal so that should be OK.
#41

Hello mike,
Yes, I restored that many years ago if you look at the Philco Gallery you will see mine after I refinished it and restored the chassis and I used striper I had to do it like 3 times !

Sincerely Richard
#42

Love it Richard! Now, just ADD red paint and a flame job up each side and it'll be ready to flip on the auction site for $$$ Icon_lolno

If I could find the place called "Somewhere", I could find "Anything" Icon_confused

Tim

Jesus cried out and said, "Whoever believes in me , believes not in me but in him who sent me" John 12:44
#43

So I have spent days tracing wires and comparing the original and later production drawings to my radio as I disassemble it. I have figured out most of it but can't seem to get a handle one one section. My radio for the most part is the later production 610 without the phono section. Where the difference lies is my radio does not have the resistors #17 and 18#. I also has an extra 20 ohm resistor between pin #6 of tube 6a7 and ground not shown on the drawing.  I find it odd that this same value of resistor shows up on the original model 610 as item #9 but is not tied to 6a7 and there is no #9 item on the later version drawing.  Also resistors #16,17,18, as well as cap.#15 on the original drawing also are not in my radio. Any ideas or comments? anyone know of any other drawings out there that might show this version? Should I just put it back the way it is/was? Thx.


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#44

Hello Tim,
Well, this set has been working flawless for over 15 years now.
Jim I might look and see if I have any photos of my chassis to see what one mine is!

Sincerely richard
#45

So I have cleaned the tuning capacitor, cleaned the band switch, stuffed the bakalite capacitors, rang out the  power transformer, coils and speaker. It is time to start putting everything back together. I still haven't figured out the apparent revisions that are in my radio but they are there for a reason so I am going to put it back the way it was/is. Wish me luck!




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