[Ron Ramirez]

Ron, it also looks like someone put a homemade clutch assy on the tuning shaft, ...

I remember that little issue from the original thread about this radio.

Just curious...being as how I am not familiar with Brand Z's way of doing things...what is the purpose of this clutch, anyway?

I do have another 9-S-262 chassis with an original clutch, but I am planning to restore that chassis also, later on, so I don't want to yank any parts from it. I would be willing to swap clutches between the two, though, if the original would be significantly better.

[Eliot Ness]

...Just curious...being as how I am not familiar with Brand Z's way of doing things...what is the purpose of this clutch, anyway?....

It is designed to slip when the motorized tuning gets to the ends of its travel.... that screw adjusts the tension.  I'm not sure how effective the homemade clutch will work so you might be OK with it.  The drive pulleys themselves will also tend to slip at the end of travel, but that's with the old cloth style drive belts, I'm not sure how tight the belts from Adams will be.  You'll just have to experiment to see how well it works, and really, most people will stop tuning before it gets to the ends so it is usually a non-issue.

[Ron Ramirez]

Well, I mentally crossed my fingers...and removed the dial assembly...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_027.jpg]

The procedure wasn't as hard as I had feared. Having John Goller's instructions, courtesy of John (Eliot Ness) and Geoff, helped a great deal.

A couple photos of the back of this mechanism:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_028.jpg]

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_029.jpg]

Notice how the springs are placed in the photo just above.

What happens next?

Stay tuned...

[Ron Ramirez]

I did it!

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_030.jpg]

The AM leaves sent to me last year by thirtiesradio are now in place in the mechanism. Here's a closer look:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_031.jpg]

and here are the original AM leaves:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_032.jpg]

Only one problem sprung up (pun intended): One of the hooks on one end of the spring that holds the AM leaves together broke when I started reassembling the thing. I was able to carefully bend the spring and make a new hook, though. What say you, guys? Will the metal spring hold up now, or will it break again in the near future?

I have not reattached the dial assembly to the radio yet. I have also removed the tuning and motor shafts, in anticipation of the arrival of the new dial belts (which still have not arrived). I won't be going any further on this radio until those dial belts get here. Knowing the tuning and motor switch shafts had to be removed to get the new belts on, I see no point in reassembling things now only to have to partially disassemble again when the belts get here.

So now it's a waiting game.

But all of this makes me feel better about tacking the other 9-S-262 chassis I have. Why? I will have to disassemble it completely, just like Geoff did with his, since my other chassis has some serious rust issues that will have to be addressed. That's why you see the can of copper hammered spray paint in some of the photos above - that paint isn't for this chassis. It is for my other 9-S-262 chassis which will need it once the rust is removed. (Yes, it's that bad. You'll see once warm weather returns which is when I will start on it, and I will start a separate thread on it at that time.)

[Eliot Ness]

Congratulations Ron, it's looking good with those new AM shutters on there  

Not sure about that spring.... but the fact it didn't break when you were bending the new end is a good sign.

[thirtiesradio]

Looks great Ron! I've had the springs break on the end where they bend more than once. Just made a new bend as you did and they have worked just fine ever since.

[Geoff]

Excellent job Ron! The springs can be a little tricky if you don't put them back exactly where they came from and in the proper orientation. It can interfere with the action of the leaves. Also, when the leaves close, they smack against a hard stop. There was originally a piece of felt glued there to cushion the action. Over years of continually changing bands and smacking the leaves against the hard stop the felt can get worn down. I replaced the felt on mine with some self-adhesive felt cut to size.

I remember there was one part on my 9S262 that I goofed up on during my refurbishment. I'm the type that likes to take everything apart and clean everything down to the last nut and bolt. Here are some pictures of P/N 22-558 (C7 on the schematic).

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

This was covered with what seemed to be a light oil and it was very filthy. So foolish me, instead of just wiping it clean I totally disassembled it, cleaned it, and put it back together again. I assumed that this padder was covered in the alignment instructions and I would just reset it when I was done. Well, guess what? It's not. And I had a very difficult time trying to put it back together. I broke a few of the mica sheets. I bought some replacement mica sheet but it was too thick. I tried to shave it into thinner sections but didn't have any luck. I finally gave up on it but luckily another forum member was kind enough to send me an original C7 from a parts set he had.

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

That part was in the Zenith Parts Catalog I linked to in post #12.

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

I never really understood that if the capacitance in each section was fixed, why have it as an adjustable padder? You would think they would have just installed one 1500 pF cap and one 5000 pF cap and been done with it.

- Geoff

[Ron Ramirez]

Thank you, John (Eliot), thirtiesradio, and Geoff!

Now let's finish this thread up.

Today, the belts arrived from Adams Radio:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_033.jpg]

Not bad, really. I ordered them on New Year's Day and they were mailed the next day. Five days from MI to southern IN, probably by way of Butte, Montana, San Francisco and NY.

Why two sets of belts? The other two will be used in my other 9-S-262 chassis, which will be a project for warmer weather as mentioned previously.

So I installed the belts, reinstalling the tuning and motorized tuning shafts at the same time. Then I reinstalled the dial assembly, tone control switch, the disks that show control functions, dial glass gasket and the dial glass itself (once it was cleaned).

Here's how things looked just before I reinstalled the dial glass:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_034.jpg]

I then put the speaker back into the cabinet, and stuck the chassis in the cabinet just to listen to it:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_035.jpg]

Only one more thing to do, and that's to replace the temporary green AC cord with a brown one. Then it will be completely finished.

Observations:

It has no trouble picking up my home SSTRAN transmitter with no antenna - but that is no surprise, being as how it is sitting very close to my SSTRAN.

It does sound very good in the cabinet. It's still playing in the basement as I type this.

Having been warned that having the motor belt too tight could burn the motor out, I set the tension on it as loose as I dared to. It runs somewhat slowly going up the scale until it gets past 100 on the AM dial, at which point it runs fast. It runs fast going down the scale from any position on the scale. (Yes, I did oil the felt washers of the motor.)

The tuning belt seems rather tight, but at least now I can tune the thing with the tuning knob only, without having to assist with one finger pushing the upper pulley along.

I think it turned out very well; better than I expected, actually. I think Little Joe is looking down upon Grandpa and is pleased with my work. I think his mom and dad will be happy with the radio.

My most sincere thanks go out to thirtiesradio, Sam (mafiamen2), John (Eliot Ness), Geoff, and Sean for the assists in this project.

[sam]

Great job Ron     
Cabinet looks great too 
Hope they love it
Sam 

[klondike98]

Super job 

[morzh]

Ron

My gear was simply frozen, the Lithium grease did the job.
The motor will not do it like that, slow before 100 and fast tereafter, as it makes many turns before reaching it, and they are all the same. it is likely your metal gear. Lube it and work it.

It doesnot have to be very loose, and short bursts whih is how the motor is operated will not burn it.

[thirtiesradio]

Very, Very nice Ron!
There is what looks like a clock main spring that keeps the play out of the tuning system as well as assisting to balance the tuning cap weight. It is attached to the tuning shaft. On the motorized sets it needs to have the right tension. On the earlier sets it is not critical. If it's too loose or tight, the motor will slow/speed up noticeably as you get to the higher frequencies on the dial. Also, as Mortz says the metal gear may need to be lubed as they get gummed up. Should run smoothly and consistently through the frequencies.

[Geoff]

There is what looks like a clock main spring that keeps the play out of the tuning system as well as assisting to balance the tuning cap weight. It is attached to the tuning shaft. On the motorized sets it needs to have the right tension. On the earlier sets it is not critical. If it's too loose or tight, the motor will slow/speed up noticeably as you get to the higher frequencies on the dial.

Good point. I forgot about that spring. If I remember correctly I had to play around with that a little bit to get mine to work properly.

[Geoff]

Looks absolutely beautiful Ron, great job !!!

Does yours still have the gold "bee hive" acoustic adapter?

[Image: http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.ph...alNumber=2]

If so, you should be able to grab on to the black knob and move the adapter forwards and backwards so you can adjust the sound to your liking.  If I remember correctly, there is a shaft that goes right through the speaker.  Mine was frozen on there solid.  I could not move it forward or backwards. Someone warned me to be careful when trying to work it loose.  If somebody monkeyed with it in the past and did not put it back together properly, if you apply too much force while trying to unstick it you run the risk of pushing the rod right through the grill cloth.  I totally removed the speaker and sprayed the rod with WD-40 and let it sit overnight.  It worked fine after that.

[thirtiesradio]

I like the variac you have in your set Geoff. Most of these older sets do so much better at around 110VAC.

For such a simple mechanism, the acoustic adapter actually works quite well.