[OldRestorer]

Bill,
I used Ultra classis colors for mine. Perfect brown on the arch/face trim and a vey light coat of Medium walnut on the inner face piece.

Post on it here:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread...9#pid39429

Demerol... Ick!

[Bill Bacco]

Ok. Sounds good. Given the honey color, I thought you might have used something else on the inner face piece, since yours looks a lot different from some of the other pictures I saw. Did you spray or use a brush on?

Also do you know whether anyone has ever tried to use Minwax stains for these, instead of the Mohawk toners? These are more readily available where I live.

Thanks, Bill

[Radioroslyn]

Hi Bill,
>Also do you know whether anyone has ever tried to use Minwax stains for these, instead of the Mohawk toners? These are more readily available where I live.

Yes and it is very noticeable!
It's difficult to get the depth and proper color with stains. Different process as stains are absorbed in to the wood toners are topical. You can add more depth by adding more coats of toner yeiding better result and faster, important in manufacturing.
Mohawk products are sold by a number of outlets that can be found on the net. You'll need a can of sanding sealer, the two toners and gloss clear. Think there about $8 a can.

GL
Terry

[Bill Bacco]

Ok. Any particular sanding sealer that you use? I found this Mohawk one "Tone Finish Clear Lacquer Sanding Sealer" (M102-0423). Is that what you normally use?

Also is it necessary to grain fill, if using the sanding sealer?

Thanks, Bill

[klondike98]

I've used Deft spray sanding sealer if you can find it, some stores carry it others don't. That Mohawk sanding sealer is fine. As for grain filler it depends on the depth of the grains. It can take multiple spray sanding sealer coats with sanding in between to fill them that way but I know some folks do. I've also used brush on Deft sanding sealer (you can apply more than you can with spray) followed by sanding until the brush strokes are gone and the grain is filled. It seemed to do OK but I prefer grain fillers. The good thing as long as you are using the lacquers is its not too hard to strip and start over if it looks bad. I think everyone develops their own technique and learns with time, but there are some folks on here that are very skilled at it.

[Radioroslyn]

I use the M102-0543. As for grain filter give the cabinet a coat or two of SS  and look to see if you see any pours in the wood . What you want is a very smooth surface. If it isn't smooth your need to use grain filler to smooth it out before toning. The SS isn't designed to fill.

Terry

[Arran]

 I'm not so sure that a model 80 or 81 cabinet would even require grain filler, on the model 81 I have the veneer looks like maple, beech, or some other tight grained wood. In terms of sanding sealer I've heard that there is a universal water based type sold under the Varathane brand that is good for just about anything, and no it is not poly so your lacquer will stick to it, I wish I could find it in my area though.
  It may just be the lighting but on the model 80 cabinet that Kirk was working on the dark portions look a little too red, on my 81 they are a medium to dark walnut colour. I should add that my model 81's cabinet is a decent original, and other then the odd blemish which I will attempt to touch up at some point, it will stay that way, no point in adding more work to the pile where none is necessary.
Regards
Arran

[klondike98]

Arran, I think you are correct about lack of grain on the 80 and 81. My 80 did not need filler but I wasn't sure if that was going to be true for them all.

[Bill Bacco]

I want to confirm the colors used by above. OldRestorer mentioned the following "I used Ultra classis colors for mine. Perfect brown on the arch/face trim and a very light coat of Medium walnut on the inner face piece".

When looking for these, I found the Ultra Classic Perfect Brown (M100-0249), just fine. However the only Ultra Classic Medium Walnut I found was "Ultra Classic Medium Brown Walnut" (M100-0207).

Are these the correct 2 colors?

Thanks, Bill

[OldRestorer]

Hey Bill,
Here is a site with them listed and priced.
http://www.pondcovepaint.com/content/pag...ducts.html

The colors you posted are indeed the correct names. If you have a business address then have your toners shipped there and claim a business address. It will save you a lot on shipping. I was going over my restoration and I believe that I actually did not tone the light part of the front.

Kirk

[Bill Bacco]

Kirk,

If you did not tone it, what did you put on it? It almost looks like you painted with a brush, given the one brush stroke outside the grill area on the left. To me it looks more like a Golden Oak.

I was wondering why yours looked so much lighter than others I have seen. It also looks more correct.

[OldRestorer]

Hey,
The less Toner you add, the lighter it will be. I wanted it as original as possible. You have to remember that these darken over 70 years. Original is always a shade or 2 lighter. Medium walnut can be almost black if you add 50 coats. The veneer on the cabinet is burled and it does look like brush strokes. Never use a brush!

Kirk

[Bill Bacco]

I'm confused now. Did you or didn't you tone the grill?

Above you stated "I was going over my restoration and I believe that I actually did not tone the light part of the front."

Yet looking at the pictures, it sure looks like something is on there and you stated "Attempted to match the color by hand and not taped off the grill for toner"

[OldRestorer]

Ok I dont know what I said there....
I remember now that I used golden oak stain and just wiped it on with a rag. Then taped it off.
I dont own the radio so I cant check but I am 99% sure.
There is No toner on the front grill.
Kirk

[Bill Bacco]

Ok. Thanks for the clarification.