[titan1a]

I just purchased a 37-665 from Ebay. The radio uses an 80 tube versus the 5Y4 called for. The dial needs replaced (27-5422) and the radio is missing the shadowgraph unit and upper dial restraint bracket. I'm not picky about a complete restoration. I just want a completely functional radio. I'm willing to spend money for a donor chassis with the proper (hopefully working) part. The radio only works on one of the shortwave bands. Also the tuning dial is cracked and discolored.

Here my plea to restore to use, a somewhat rare, vintage radio. I already had a Zenith 7S363 repaired and functional. My preference is tube radios with their warm, rich sound.

Rick Ethridge
Plattsmouth, NE USA

[mikethedruid]

You say you need a dial. You might try Mark Oppat over at http://www.oldradioparts.net/ . He was able to provide me with a dial that is perfect for my 37-61, much closer to my original than the one I saw on another site. Best of luck with your restoration.

[Arran]

 Philco often used to swap tube types around through it's different Code numbers and production runs, I don't recall hearing about Philco swapping a type #80 rectifier for a 5Y4G in one of their 1937 sets though. In something like a 37-660 or 665 the rectifier would have been mounted atop the power transformer so I don't know what someone would have had to do to replace an octal socket normally mounted there with a four pin.
  As for the shadow meter and the dial hardware, I think a donor chassis may be the best bet, though they would not have to come from another 37-665 most likely as Philco used to use the same parts across multiple models.
Someone may even have what you need on here on a junker chassis or from a trashed set that they parted out, the original service folder should have the part numbers so you can tell what is what.
Regards
Arran

[titan1a]

My 37-665 is missing one very (to me) important part. Where is the SHADOWMETER HARNESS? Radio came with proper Bezel but no METER and no harness! Case indicates 37-665 and dial indicates 37-665. Other discrepancy as previously stated is the power transformer (#80 tube). What gives? Looking at the chassis lends no clues. What do I do? Extremely perplexed!!!

Rick (Sparks) Ethridge

[mikethedruid]

Take pictures and post them, of the cabinet and the chassis, they would be of help for folks to figure out what you have there.

[klondike98]

Rick, I merged your 37-665 shadowmeter thread with your first thread on the 37-665 to keep it all in one place.

[titan1a]

So far not good. The radio's escutcheon is missing the spring clips that fasten the shadowmeter. There is no place on the chassis to electrically connect the meter. There should be a wire harness coming from the IF section. Trying to find parts for this "bird" is an exercise! We could pay lots of money for an escutcheon only to use the clips ($55), glue the meter to the escutcheon or use twist-tie wire (the last two are really pushing the limits). Finding the right place to connect the meter will be interesting. At least we have a shadowmeter now. Last question is: why no sign of the shadowmeter, harness or spring clip?

Sparks

[titan1a]

My repairman is having problems selecting the AM band on the radio. The selector isn't turning any further than the third band to the right. Any suggestions?

[klondike98]

Here's the schematic: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013221.pdf

Broadcast (AM) is position 1 (farthest position counter clockwise when facing the front of the radio or farthest postion clockwise from the rear according to the schematic).  My first thought... if the switch is not moving to all 4 positions there must be a mechanical problem, a contact somewhere has gotten bent or there is something that has been pushed onto one of the switch wafers.

My second thought would be to ask... are you sure you don't have a 37-650B which looks similar but only has 3 bands.

[titan1a]

Verified it's a 37-665B. Slots on the dial for four openings for the light bulb. I advised my repairman to remove the dial from the front of the radio to view the gears. Is this wise?

Rick Ethridge
Plattsmouth NE

[klondike98]

Rick, I have not worked on one of these so my advice is general. I may have misunderstood the problem. I thought it was the band switch that would not rotate fully. Are you saying its the tuning dial that has a problem. If so, look at this on Chucks site. It doesn't specifically say 665, but I'll bet there will.be useful info there. Other tips from Chuck:
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/tips/svctips.htm

[titan1a]

The bandswitch problem has been corrected. Now we've found yet another problem: "I'm not sure what was catching, but I can switch now between all 4 bands. I was able to pull in AM stations, but very distorted. I know of the 2 audio output tubes, only one of them is functioning, probably causing massive distortion. The one tube runs very hot, the other just warm." Could this be the resister network that substitutes for a phase inverter tube?

[klondike98]

I'm not the best electronics trouble shooter so hopefully one of the gang who is better at it will chime in. I'm assuming your repair guy has replaced all paper & electrolytic caps and checked, replaced out of spec resistors, and tested the tubes.

[Eliot Ness]

..... very distorted.  I know of the 2 audio output tubes, only one of them is functioning, probably causing massive distortion.  The one tube runs very hot, the other just warm......

You need to figure out if the (suspected) bad output tube is really bad or not.  Swap them and see if the same tube runs hot or not.  At this point I'd either take over the repairs myself or look for another repairman.

Like Bob just suggested, make sure all all paper & electrolytic caps have been replaced along with all out-of-spec resistors.  If that hasn't been done or the tubes haven't been tested you really do need a new repairman.

[sam]

guys
I was confused too with repair man
I take it that titan dose not do repairs and a friend is more comfortable
in doing electrical repairs

so I would suggest start from beginning
replace all caps and check resisters and tubes 
pic`s would also help a lot

sam