Philco 42-327 veneer problem
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City: Merrick, Long Island, NY
Looks like the veneer split and was re-attached on this set. The cabinet is otherwise complete, and I have re-capped and aligned the chassis. Radio plays very nicely, and the pushbuttons cleaned up well.
Does anyone know of any method to hide this glaring blemish other than covering up all the grain with spray laquer or replacing the veneer? Thanks.
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I'm not aware of any way to hide the damage.
Unfortunately, I see this fairly often on veneer that is applied over a curved surface. Eventually it cracks, especially if left in a very dry environment (i.e. heat).
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Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
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City: Merrick, Long Island, NY
There's no hiding the split veneer, but I did a selective refinishing job, and the flaw is now less glaring.
It is such a nice performing and sounding set. So I have one minor issue remaining. There are a few areas on the dial glass where the decal has fallen off. These are thankfully in the area what is opaqued when viewed from the backlighted pilot light. All the other lettering is good enough. This model has a 7 watt "Christmas bulb" type 110 volt pilot bulb as it's pilot light. Amazingly, it's still good. And, you can still get 'em because they are used at "night lites."
Anyway, back to the dial glass. I am wondering whether to leave it be, or take a spotting brush and fill these spots with, let's say artist's oil sienna mixed up with a little bit of linseed oil or poly so it will harden. In any case does it do any good to apply a coat of (?) to the back of the dial glass to preserve what is left? I feared cleaning any area on the glass other than the clear area in the center. The radio had obviously been a smoker's home, or in the kitchen, or possibly in the kitchen of a smoker, and had a thick layer of greasy crud without and within. One of the three knobs was broken and crudely repaired as well and I'm working on it, since I don't have a spare. The sandpaper/steel wool/ brasso treatment followed by a fill with crazy glue, sandpaper/steel wool/brasso technique will be iterated until it is fixed. Or until I come across another knob.
But someone out there has probably been to this place before with the decal situation. If you care to share your advice I would be most appreciative. Thanks.
I have a 37-116X with the exact same problem. I think the only real solution is to totally remove the old veneer and apply a new sheet.
I'm not looking forward to tackling my problem. better get the guts operational and checked out first.
oh, and hi. been fixin radios for about 25 years. Glad to meet youse.
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I did a couple of marquetry pieces about 20 years ago. One was a rose and the other a sailboat. Interesting process.
I would try veneer repair only if the damage is bad enough you can keep your eyes off the defect every time you look at the radio. I've got a Zenith 5S320 with a blush spot that's quarter-size on the top and a couple of small chips. I cleaned up the finish as best as I can and I'm going to live with it as is. The radio is old and it has some stories but it can't talk. I think there's a point where you can over do a restoration and loose the original character and untold story. Just my opinion.
That's a tough spot. If it were flat, you can get an exact fit by laying a piece of replacement veneer over the damaged area and cut through the replacement piece and the damaged area to scribe out the pattern. Remove the old and replace it with the new. Finishing is your option. Do it before you cut or after. This is easy in thought but may takes some practice to look right. You may want to invest some time by veneering a scrap piece of wood with a defect and repairing it.
I've never tried this but I suspect you could (1) cut out a patch and use as a template to scribe around the defective area or (2) cut around the damage, lay paper over the defect and use the blunt side of a pencil lead to trace out the shape. Cut it out, attach it to the replacement piece, cut the patch and glue into place. There lots of variations that could work, including replacement of the whole piece. Now the hard part: making a decision and following through.
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I think that realistically the only way to cover up those cracks is to stabilize the area by injecting glue, strip the finish, remove the grill bars (and the dial escutcheon if possible) and reveneer over top of the old. However the 42-327 isn't exactly a rare set, it would be far easier to get another example of the same model with a better cabinet then to fix the one you have, you may even find one with a better dial. I bought a replacement dial for mine from Radio Daze and then found out I could have bought an identical set to mine for under $20 over fleabay complete with a good dial. At least my set was complete other then that, but the speaker still needs reconing.
Best Regards
Arran
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Joined: Dec 2008
Hey Code,
I just saw this post and am sure you've probably already addressed the issue. But, thought I'd offer one more option.
By chance, I've rebuilt a handful of cathedral cabinets recently that were smashed to pieces in shipping and their veneer fronts sent to me in dozens of pieces in a zip lock baggie. Some pieces were missing, some just damaged too bad to line up smoothly.
After patching the missing areas, and through trial and error, I found the following to fill, blend and mask the lines between veneer pieces very well:
A) Knock down the top finish of the area around the lines to be fixed with 0000 steel wool
B) Put a large dollop of premium quality, stainable wood filler on cardboard or other disposable surface
C) Take an appropriate color of spray lacquer toner and spray into wood filler while mixing it aggressively and until you get the right color. Keep it moving so mixes thoroughly.
D) Quickly do the following -- 1) press mixture into lines/gaps until filled and leave a ridge remaning on top, 2) using a clean, course-bristled brush (firm toothbrush is fine) -- brush back and forth the length of the line to remove excess, smooth the line and lightly spread mixture so that it blends but brush bristles maintain the integrity of the surrouding grain
E) Once well dried, hit it with 0000 wool again lightly following the grain lines to smooth and then give a light spray of the appropriate clear lacquer to match. If needed, give a shot of lacquer toner to blend the entire area, then 0000 and clear.
Seems a little nutty maybe, but it's worked really well for me on dark and light tone cabinets.
Joe
"Ignorance is bliss...'til you have to fix a radio..."
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Joined: Nov 2005
City: Nashville, TN
Hi Codefox,
Good luck on the veneer issue, there's some good suggestions here. I have a couple of sets that need the treatment.
I have a 42-327 I think I bought from Ron a couple years ago, still haven't got to it yet. But I did find a good image of the dial, at least would be better than what I had now, as mine is really flaking off badly.
This image has been cleaned up I suspect, and the colors might not be accurate, especially where the gold is. BUt is should make a nice decal or printed image to put behind glass.
This link should take you to the full size image of 1435 X 386. I can't remember where I got it from, or I'd give credit to them.
(Right click on the image to save.)
http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/90268-1/42-327+b.jpg
As far as sprayig something on your original I wouldn't . I have a couple f other sets that are starting to flake, but I'm leaving them alone for now.
Your dial does not look that bad really. I imagine you could carefully try to touch it up, if you are artistic and have a very steady hand. Again, I'd leave it alone, or make the new dial and store your original safely.
Hope this helps.
Gary.
Posts: 2,128
Threads: 18
Joined: Oct 2008
City: Merrick, Long Island, NY
Thanks ever so much for all the help. And a big thanks for the dial image. Actually I acquired another one of these, and this time the dial glass was smashed in shipping.
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