[morzh]

I hope the tube WAS out all this time (or so I asked you to keep it) else why measure tube now.
We are talking bare socket, no tube all this time since I first asked you to yank it.

Now, the last step to make ABSOLUTELY sure it is the coil, disconnect it altogether from that point where it meets the 21 resistor and the 19 cap you cut off, AND disconnect the coil from pin 4.
Then measure either end (between them it still should be 3.8 ohm you got yesterday) to the chassis. If it is still that 70K then it is time to open it.

oh...in my post #44 by between the tube's pins 4&5 I meant between the tubes socket's pins 4&5, sorry. Measure between the socket's pins. See if there's a short.

[flatheadjr]

Okay so I measured the tube socket pins 4 and 5, those looked good no contact there (no tube in socket). Now I measured the point where the coil did connect to the number 4 pin to chassis and I get 70k ohms, and the other point where the 21 and 19 connect to chassis and I get 70k ohms there as well.

[morzh]

Well did you disconnect the coil from the socket pin 4?
From the post I am not sure whether you did.

I need the coil FULLY disconnected from the socket pin 4 and the point where it met the cap 19 and the resistor 21.

These two leads should be fully disconnected from everything.
Then measure these coil pins, pin 4 of the socket to the chassis.

Find the place that produces that ,70K.

[flatheadjr]

Yes the that measurement was made with the coil completely disconnected from pin 4.

[morzh]

OK, translate this for me. Keep in mind, I do not have your chassis in front of me.

>>>>>I measured the point where the coil did connect to the number 4 pin

Do you mean the actual pin(lug) on the coil itself, or is there an actual point by itself (solder post etc).

If you feel like it, you can call me on Skype and show me the chassis if you have a cam or a tablet you can move easily.

[flatheadjr]

Has to re install skype on one of my devices. Let me know how to get a hold of you and I'll have you have a look at this thing.

[morzh]

Look in your messages.

[morzh]

OK, so Jr and I tpok that one last look at it, made sure both secondary pins are free and measured between the primary and secondary. Sure enough we have 25K resistance between the two and in series with resistor 14 and 7 it gives us that 70K plus to the chassis.

Now Jr is gojng to extract the coil and we will try to see what causing the leakage. Short of a hidden resistor inside or an unaccounted for cap that is leaky (don't think we are going to get that lucky). It is very likely the xfmr is going to get rewound.

So at this point I would ask folks more experienced with tnis sort of things (rewinding, oscillator behaviour, coil baking etc) like Terry, Ron, and others to chime in and help; my experience with these is limited.

[flatheadjr]

I did see someone on YouTube a while back repair a couple coils in a model 18 Philco which is fairly similar to mine, his YouTube user name is bandersentv but I don't know what his real name is, I don't know if he's here on this forum or not.

[morzh]

His name is Bob Andersen and he is our local member.

[Ron Ramirez]

The following page on this very website describes how to make a modified model 18 oscillator coil:

http://philcoradio.com/notebook/supercnv.htm

The instructions for winding the primary (outer winding) will be the same.

However...

While the later 14 chassis is very similar to the 18, if I'm not mistaken I think the 14 has a 175 kc IF? (The 18 has a 260 kc IF.) This will most likely make a difference in the number of turns required. (Edit: Yes, confirmed: The 14 has a 175 kc IF according to the service data for this model.)

[flatheadjr]

So this morning I finally pulled out the coil after many photos and a drawing to help me get it back together. I've included a couple photos of the coil so that hopefully the course of action to fix it can be done. I need to know the best source for materials. 

[morzh]

Now that you have it fulky out, just for s..ts and gighles measure between the two windings one last time, see if the 25K is still there. Not likely it will disappear but still.


As I suspected it is one coil over the other so this makes it possible to develop a short.

[flatheadjr]

That's the first thing I did when I pulled it lose from the chassis was to check the measurement between the windings and the resistance was still there. Not sure whether to try fixing it myself or seeing if someone with more experience can fix it for me.

[morzh]

Well... there is not a whole lot of turns. You notice the winding direction, make notes, measure the wire gauge, and mark the limits that were original limits of both windings. Foyr key things : wire gauge, direction from beg to end, geomettical position along the bobbin and the number of turns.