Philco 46-1201 Restoration
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Ok, I looked again.. I didn't follow the wires correctly the first time.. The resistors are indeed R100A and R100B.. I added up the voltages and got the same as Terry.. 103 volts so I assume the Pilot lamp makes up the rest of the voltage?
[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...lmsian.jpg]
Skip...
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I will have to see if I have anything for a Code 26 version of a 46-1201, I have a collection of every 46-1201 schematic that I could get my hands on since I had a Canadian version that did not match the diagram in RCC, and had to piece it together from three or four different diagrams. In any event the off board resistor is probably because Philco decided to use a 36L6 rather then a 50L6 or 50A5 in this set. My set has a 50L6 or a 50A5 (can't remember which) so it doesn't need to drop an extra 15 volts. All of the other tubes are 6.3 volts at 150 ma, they are not 7 volts in spite of using numbers like 7A8, 7B7, etc. The whole filament string in my set adds up to 118.9 volts, which is not too bad considering that most series string sets were designed around a working voltage of 117 volts, 1.1 volts spread across five tubes isn't going to hurt anything. One thing that I did not like about these sets is the fact that they hard wired the phonograph motor and the cartridge to the radio chassis, as well as the loop antenna, I can understand why they didn't want an RCA jack (except in Canada) but why not mount a plug and socket for the motor?
Regards
Arran
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Yup, I agree.. I am going to put in connectors.. Not sure what I will do with the loop ant..
If you happen to find anything else on a Code 126.. Please PM me and let me know if you can..
Thanks again for everyone's help.. The Cap replacement is going on now..
Skip...
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Well, The Cap replacement went well.. I thought.. When I turned on the radio I get a VERY load hum..But before the Hum came up I could RX a station I happened to be on with dial. After HUM no stations.. The hum is louder at top end of band... Actually it so bad I didn't want to leave it on in case I might destroy something..
So I guess I will take it back out of case
What should I check first?
I can take a video with sound and email to someone if they need to hear it..
Skip...
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Check your electrolytics first. Sounds like you may have a loose connection, bad ground, or cold solder joint.
Greg V.
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Ok, Checked the connections and re-soldered.. Still same problem. I did measure some voltages.. at the filter caps..all look OK so far. However I cannot leave radio on very long as Hum (crackling sound) gets very loud and I might destroy speaker.. Maybe a Tube? as it warms up?? I did check tubes on tester and all checked out fine.. This is with volume all the way down.. PS I do not have the Record player hooked up..I do not see how that would cause any problems..BUT??
No clue as what to do next...
Skip...
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ALL, I rechecked the tubes.. I found that the 50X6 tube measured a short on the tube tester.. the light was flickering on and off. Didn't notice it last time a tested it..
So maybe that's my problem.
I will order a replacement
Skip...
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You may want to back track. Go over each of the caps you replaced and verify they are indeed the correct values and soldered to the correct points. Double check the polarity on the electrolytics too, not that one is in backwards. Also, because it is a very cramped chassis, be sure no bare leads on the caps / resistors are touching one another. That can sometimes be easy to overlook.
Greg V.
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(08-07-2016, 06:12 PM)vecher Wrote: Ok, I looked again.. I didn't follow the wires correctly the first time.. The resistors are indeed R100A and R100B.. I added up the voltages and got the same as Terry.. 103 volts so I assume the Pilot lamp makes up the rest of the voltage?
[Image: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm38/...lmsian.jpg]
Skip...
It looks like R-100B is a heater dropping resistor and it drops the ac voltage to the 110v dial lamp. R-100a I think is a current limiting resistor for the input of the voltage doubler. The lamp is in parallel with heater string not in series.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 08-13-2016, 03:57 PM by Radioroslyn.)
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Ok, I will go over the wiring again while waiting for the new tube. I agree its very cramped and easy to miss things..
Its hard to tell if connections are right since my schematic doesn't really follow the chassis layout.. So I will take my time and look at it again..
Skip
PS Terry that makes since if R100A drops the voltage.. So the 103 volts that you calculated makes since..
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Ok, Went over wiring again. Did find a wire that looked that it was burnt against other pins on a tube socket. So I replaced The wire. Checked all connections and caps.. All looks good. I will wait on tube before I fire it up again. I think that that may be the problem I hope..
Skip...
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Question... Does the 46-1201 have any issues with the lead dress? I still get motor boating. Checked the OSC and its running fine. I cannot seem to find how to correct this..
Its minimum at low end of band and wipes out stations at high end..
Help??
Skip...
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There are some lead dress tips listed in amongst the different 'code' changes. However your motor boating issue may be as simple as not having a good antenna connection, or reversed leads on the antenna. Be sure to scrape the insulation off of those tiny antenna wires before you resolder them on. You should see a bright copper color on the ends of the leads you wish to solder.
Greg V.
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Well, With NO antenna hooked up its still the same..Actually its worse.. I am going to take a video with sound.. So maybe someone can listen to sound its making...
If so just send me a PM and I will send you the file..
Thanks
Skip...
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are the electrolytics capacitors isolated from the chassis,,card board rapping around can----in clamp---????
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