Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 19X restoration
#1

I'm working on my first restoration, which is on a model 19x I picked up a few weeks ago.  The previous owner said the radio worked, but before I powered it on I took the chassis out to clean and inspect.  I also ordered the schematics from Chuck with plans to replace any faulty capacitors.  As I was going through the schematic, I noticed that there was several parts on the radio that were not shown in the schematic.  Looking in the change notes and from Ron's post on the evolution of the model 19 (http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=15008) I was able to identify one of these parts which was added later on (a resistor).  However, I have identified three capacitors that are not in the schematic or in the change notes.  All three of these capacitors are in different locations but are connected to the lugs on the original bakelite capacitors.

- 2 Aerovox caps; molded paper with unknown capacitance value.  The cap is molded in a brown plastic, with only 1 Orange dot.  The dot is in the location of the 3rd dot in the normal 3 dot color coding scheme.  

- 1 Solar cap; paper cap of .09 uF

This leads me to my questions:

1) Is it possible that these caps were added after the radio was manufactured? Possibly by someone attempting to repair the radio? I figured Philco would use a Philco capacitors since this site lists part numbers for capacitors (http://www.philcorepairbench.com/partinfo.htm).  My guess is that the capacitors in the bakelite casing have shorted so they may have added these "replacement" capacitors on the outside of the casings???

2) How do I interpret the Aerovox capacitor color code with only one dot? Is it possible that the first two dots are to be interpreted as brown? I also looked for any markings on the case.  It only says, "AEROVOX", "PATENTED", "MADEINUSA", and "MFD.".

I apologize if this issue has been raised before.  I searched through the other threads with no luck. The information on this site has been tremendously helpful thus far, so thank you.

Van
Falls Church, VA
#2

Welcome to the Phorum!
Icon_wave

Yes indeed, those extra caps are the result of a past repair. Repair guys often just tacked those into the circuit without removing the old caps. Sometimes they even did that with the electrolytic caps. No need to interpret the Aerovax color code, just restuff that bakelite block with the caps that are in the schematic and take the extra caps off. Its pretty easy to stuff those bakelites. There are several tutorials; including at this LINK. I usually completely unsolder and pull them to make it easier to clean them up but as the link shows, you don't have to in many cases.
#3

I was about to say the same: Philco used Philco-marked caps, so instead of interpreting the code of a cap that might even not be of the same value it was intended to replace, just see what backelite (or other) cap it is parallelled to, find it on the sch and follow with restuffing the backelite cap with the appropriate value new part.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#4

Hi Van and welcome,
The only thing I'll add is that some values of the caps aren't being made any more like the .09mfd (don't think I've ever seen one of these). Common replacement value is .1mfd. Same with resistors. I was recently working on a set that the schematic showed a 100k resistor, so I was looking for a brown black yellow one. Couldn't find it but did find a white white orange (990K). It was original to the set. Some of these things can be a little confusing.
On the tag that has the model # on it there will code # like 121 or 122 this code will help you find the proper info for that particular chassis. Think there where 3 or 4 different codes for model 19/89.
Got a 19 myself that's due for an overhaul. It's like this one:
  http://www.philcoradio.com/gallery/1933a.htm#d

GL

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

As Terry said 0.1uF works perfectly well as a replacement for 0.09uF - but you can actually buy 0.09uF caps if it's more aesthetically pleasing to you. Icon_smile

http://www.justradios.com/cart.html actually sells 0.09uF value caps - and other odd values.
#6

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies.  Ok that is good to know.  I will remove the after market capacitors and replace them with new caps as specified by the schematic.  If I can't find the exact values I need, I'll use values that are close.

I'll most likely have more questions along the process, which I'll post here.

Thanks again everyone. Attached is a pic of the radio. My wife has started some of the restoration of the cabinet but it was in pretty good shape when I found it. 

Van
Falls Church, VA


Attached Files Image(s)
   
#7

Oh yeah....this is the only 90nF cap sold by Mouser.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keme...fh4g%3d%3d

Surprisingly, not expensive.
But very poorly suited for backelite stuffing.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#8

Oh oh you mean the 90,000 mmfd condenser or the .09 mfd. It's a wu#%sy cap any way a dinky 250v job.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#9

> but it was in pretty good shape when I found it.

I'm not quite sure how to take that? Icon_rolleyes [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_lol.gif]    She may want to tread lightly on it. Sometimes a light cleaning with 000 steelwool and GOJO w/o pumice will make a big improvement. A little J&J paste wax afterword to give it a bit of a shine.

  

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Shadow Meter Bulb
Phorum members, I am trying to find the bulb # for PHILCO Shadow Meter part number 45-2180 that is from a 37-640 chassis...georgetownjohn — 06:53 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
3D-printing...short of machining, of course. Or molding.morzh — 05:20 PM
Philco 41-608 changer coupler
Thanks, Morzh. That solves the issue of the rubber pieces. Now, I need to find a way to replicate the pot metal piec...alangard — 05:07 PM
12' Philco
If it is 12', either Kareem or Andre would have to jump pretty high to look at the front panel. Kareem would have an e...morzh — 01:48 PM
12' Philco
And here's a story about the tires on the truck. Same "no-stoop" guy must have installed these! Take care a...GarySP — 01:17 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
I think they have only shown the secondaries of the transformer. Two of them feed the rectifiers' filaments.morzh — 12:58 PM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Arran If the wire inside cans is the gauges you mentioned, the sole reason for that would be mechanical, to stiffen t...morzh — 12:56 PM
12' Philco
Rod, Yes, I know, but the Giant Philco is not around anymore either, so I go by whoever was alive fairly recently. H...morzh — 12:54 PM
Hickok AC51 tube tester
Absolutely no one is going to reverse engineer that circuit. Even the iron core is missing.RodB — 10:37 AM
IF can wire size and Rubber mounts?
Thanks to both members for your help regarding wire and tuner mtg supports. regards--Johngeorgetownjohn — 09:33 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 5815 online users. [Complete List]
» 2 Member(s) | 5813 Guest(s)
AvatarAvatar

>