[baspas]

O.K. I have a Philco 26J for all intents and purposes it is identical to a 19 and 89 using a 36 tube. But…it has an extra Bakelite condenser block and a 5 wire gang (that’s been cut) presumably to feed the phonograph that’s trashed along with the rest of the set. It also has an A.C. plug coming out the other end also presumably for the phono (that’s not a problem). I want to eliminate the extra Bakelite block but I’m not sure what wires go where. I’m getting better at schematics but could use a little help here. I’m not worried about the five gang wires but there are several other wires to the block I need to reroute. Anybody? Thanks, Brett
.S. I want to use this chassis for my 89 that’s why I want to eliminate the gang and block plus the extra caps are not on any schematics i've seen.

[Radioroslyn]

Can you post a picture of it or the diagram? Without it I'm at a loss.
Terry

[Ron Ramirez]

Is the 26 cabinet completely toast :

Because if it is salvageable at all, it should be restored. The 26 is a very rare bird. Do you have photographs you can share?

An extra Bakelite block was added to the 19 and 89 early in production. It is located close to the antenna coil. Is this the extra block you refer to? I can't help you on the "5 wire gang" as I have never seen a 26, but you are probably right on that.

[baspas]

Actually the wood cabinet is very refinishable. The inside is a mess. Every wire from the phono has been cut and removed as well as everything from the chassis. As near as I can tell the only outward things missing are the little needle cups under the lid and one knob (volume). I can’t find any info at all on the 26 or the 26J. All the tubes were missing along with the shields and the switches were broke and/or disconnected. I would love to restore this set. I have an 89B 123 that I can’t figure out. My intention is to get this chassis up and running and put it in the 89B, hopefully learn something and get the 89B chassis working then go back and restore the 26J.

[baspas]

Well I just finished fixing the switches, recapping and replacing some wiring on this 26J chassis. Everything matched up perfectly with the Mod. 19/89. It seems my fear of a blown transformer may be a reality. When I picked this set up there were a lot of wax drippings that had flowed out of the bottom of the transformer. Now that it’s done the tubes and dial lamp light up but nothing else. How do I test it and how do I find a replacement. Is there anything new that could be used?

[codefox1]

With the set off and unplugged, measure the resistance from each plate of the rectifier to the B- (usually ground) The resistance should be about the same. Next, with the rectifier tube removed and the set on , measure the AC voltage from eaqch plate of the rectifier plate pin to the B-. Careful, this would be several hundred volts, but again, about the same voltage from each plate. If it's off by much, there may be in internal short in the power transformer, and it will heat up whether the rectifier is inserted or not. If one leg is open, or you get no ac at all, then it's a goner as far as this set is concerned, unless you are very lucky and can find a faulty connection to the windings inside.

Most old sets did not have any fusing, so the bad caps probably put a strain on the rectifier, and in turn the transformer. That would explain the wax or tar droppings. If the transformer is electrically OK, and doesn't overheat, you're probably in the clear. You might want to take the bells off, check for proper insulation and connections.

If the transformer doesn't overheat, has good filament windings, and only half it's High voltage windings, keep it for another project down the road.

Keep us posted

[baspas]

I found a problem with the speaker wiring and fixed that. I have sound through the speaker (a soft hiss) and the volume control is working but it’s not picking up a thing. I have an outdoor long wire connected to it and not even a hint of reception. I touched the grid caps and can hear it through the speaker but no “buzz”. However when I touch the #44 I.F. grid cap I get a loud whistle that last long after I remove the screwdriver tip. Also there is a .003mf cap on the antenna feed where it comes into the chassis that’s not on the schematic. I tried bypassing it but that didn’t help. I feel like I’m close. Any help? :

[exray]

If its similar to the 19/89 you might want to check to see if the local oscillator is functioning. The 89 model has a terrible reputation for bad oscillator coils.

[baspas]

I went back to the cabinet and found the butt ends of the five clipped wires. They go to a switch for phono/radio. Since I’m not sure how to eliminate the extra components in the chassis and plan on someday restoring the whole set, I’m going to rewire the switch and see if switching it to radio helps. How do you check an oscillator? My 89B is driving me nuts.

[Ron Ramirez]

The oscillator coil is notorious for going bad in Model 19 and 89 sets.

This should be removed (once you note which wire goes to what terminal), baked in an oven for 30 minutes at 200 degrees Fahrenheit; then once the coil is removed from the oven and allowed to cool, the windings should be checked for continuity. Chances are that the cathode winding (outer winding on the coil) will be bad; they are in the vast majority of these 19 and 89 sets.

The coil should be baked as described above to drive out moisture. Moisture absorption in the coil will kill an oscillator in these sets, also.

Baspas, please check your PM. Thanks.

[baspas]

IT WORKS! I wired the switch from the phono to the chassis and bingo. Now I have to find some tube shields and info on the phonograph. Onto the 89B and the smoking transformer. I wish there was someone near by that I could learn from. The nearest club is eighty miles away. I was told to trace my B+ with an ohm meter. I'll try, not sure how to do that. I'm a blueprint guy, what it is where it is. Schematics are what it is go find where it is. Drives me nuts. Thaks for all the help and info guys.