Hello All…I am new to the Phorum so please bear with me.
I have a question on a CT-2 Chrysler Deluxe Radio that I have just started on.
I am using the rider’s schematic which is difficult to get a good hardcopy of.
I have recapped most of the radio with the exception on the a few metal cans. I would assume that the 3 metal cans with the exception of the filter caps are all electrolytic as there is nothing in the part numbers that designate them.
I have replaced the electrolytic filter caps and am confused. I assumed the metal can was the negative side of the capacitor and as such I wired the replacements that way.
On power up I am measuring -206vdc on the plates and +4.5vdc on the filaments with respect to chassis ground. Did I put the caps in backwards?
Morzh
I have replaced all but the 3 capacitors listed with the correct sizes and voltage
I replaced the filter capacitor (57) with 2 separate caps 4 & 8 mfd with the negative side referenced to the + ground and the 4 & 8 mfd + side to the transformer.
The 3 caps that I have not replaced are (34) 30-423 25-.25 mfd
(38) 30-2076 10-10 mfd and (57) 30-4015 .5mfs
Thanks
Tom
So...you have your negative lead (plugged into the meter's common) on the Chassis (GND symbol) and the positive (red) lead, plugged into the meter's V(voltage/ohms) input, on the 84 tube's cathode (or where 67 caps' positive meets the cathode and the choke, or is it the field coil?) and you have negative voltage?
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
+ power to chassis (ground) - power to power lead.
To measure I have the + lead to classis (+ ground) on the radio.
and using the - lead to measure the plate voltages I get -203vdc on all the plates
+4.6 vdc on all the filiments ???
The plates voltage is negative in relation to chassis ground. Could this be correct?
Moving on to the next problem. The plates are hitting on the variable tuning condenser. Tried to separate them in the radio but there is not enough room to work. Looks like ill have to remove it.
Need help!
On this CT-2 Chrysler deluxe radio, I have replaced the caps and checked all the tubes.
As stated in an earlier post I had to remove a few shorted plates in the tuning capacitor.
I cannot get the Oscillator to run. I can inject a 260 KC modulated signal into the IF and get tone out to the speaker with plenty of volume control.
Checked all the coils and all appear to be good. Checked R11 & C12 in the oscillator circuit and both are in spec. I have replaced the 77 tube twice. Both check good.
I have replaced C34 (30-4231) .25uf, .25uf. The original is a large square can with can screwed to the chassis. I did not use electrolytic’s although it looks like a duel can. Is this an electrolytic at .25uf?
Is the schematic incorrect? If it’s and electrolytic should the (-) side go to the chassis? Is this even my problem?
I have not touched the padder caps yet>
Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.
Tom
Hi Tom,
The .25mfd cap are wax/foil originally now days they get replaced with mylar or film caps (not electrolytic). As for your osc issues I'd measure the resistance of the four connection on the osc coil to be sure that they all have resistance to each other. Should pretty low like 30ohms or less. If not coils is bad. Also measure the resistance from chassis gnd to the stator of the osc section of the tuning cap to be sure that you don't have any more shorted plates. Measure it with all the way closed and then open should show an open circuit both ways.
GL
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Steve
I didn't remove any plates....I meant to say I re positioned the plates so none are hitting each other.
GL
That's what I would assume about the capacitors. However the capacitor I was talking about sure does look like
a 25uf electrolytic vs a .25uf as called out by the Philco part number.
See picture attached.