Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

40-216 restoration questions
#1

Schematic shows 5 lines coming out of it. Unit I am working with only has 4 lines.

They made an update to the chassis???

Part # says 32-7993 on the schem but stamped on top of item itself is 32-7993R

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013346.pdf
#2

The schematic shows the output center tap is connected to one of the primary lines so that might be done internally and you'll only see four leads....?
#3

I had to sit with the radio and schematic and trace it out. Took me a few minutes but then I saw it. It appears you must be right.
#4

40-216 band switch doesn’t appear to have any feedback when rotating. Well there is some but it is really small. Maybe just getting enough feedback from the waffer contacts.

I can see the end piece that is all metal and usually rotates up and over those bumps for feedback and that piece that moves is riding above the bumps.

I don’t see how this could even be moved down into a better position. The amount of space and what is needed to make contact doesn’t seem like it would be enough.

Plus I don’t see how if it used to ride fine that it would have moved that much further above the bumps.

Thoughts?

Design or QA flaw?

Can I fix?

[Image: https://i.imgur.com/0wABX52.jpg]
#5

Usually there are steel balls that ride over the bumps to provide the tactile feedback. Do you see holes in the rotating bar where a ball might have been located? There also should be a leaf spring to apply tension and press the ball against the locating bumps.
#6

Don't see where any would go.

[Image: https://i.imgur.com/8mqhA10.jpg]
#7

Is there a name for that part of a rotary switch setup?
#8

That part is usually referred to as the switch detent assembly.

Is it possible that the whole shaft has shifted backwards so the rotating bar no longer contacts the bumps? There should be a groove with a lock ring in front of the switch bushing which prevents the shaft from moving axially. If the lock ring is missing then the shaft can move backward and the bar will no longer be in contact with the bumps.

Can you slide the shaft forward so the bar contacts the bumps?
#9

I was thinking it would be "detent" as mentioned above.

I'm going to try and get some better shots and maybe a high res video to share.

Stay tuned.
#10

Here is a little video. See if this helps.

I tried to add some lighting at the end but it was a tad bright.  Icon_confused

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTnNGNHV...e=youtu.be
#11

Part #30

Can I go 5w or should I really stay with a 2w?

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013346.pdf
#12

You can always use larger wattage. It's a question of having space for it, nothing else.

Wattage is not really an electrical parameter.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#13

I guess I was thinking that wattage has a capping point to also make the resistor sort of a fuse.

If wattage gets to this level then blow up and save some other components.
#14

No, it is not the way a resistor is used, with the exception of special "fusible" resistors.

And, most of the time, if the resistor starts heating unreasonably, this means some other components have already been damaged in the first place to make it overheat.
The wattage rating is not there to melt at certain point, but to provide a compromise between the space needed and acceptable heating. It is always better to have a resistor that heats less, meaning higher power rating, but then one might not have enough space to accommodate it, so a compromise is reached between "this heat should not damage this resistor and things around it" and "this resistor needs this much space" by using a resistor of 2W rating, which is sufficient instead of 1W, which would not be sufficient (damage to resistor or nearby components) or 5W, which is acceptable but too big.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#15

The resistor I have is much smaller so I am good there. It is one of those white block ceramic types.

So I guess the next question would be is that type ok?

These are wire wound correct?

I've heard wire wound should not be used in some circuits.




Users browsing this thread: 5 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Jackson 715 not working
Now that you posted the schematic, I don't know why that Sprague electrolytic cap is across the meter, as it is not indi...MrFixr55 — 05:51 PM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
What may be lacking in the PP Tube amps may be the 2nd harmonics, which some, especially RCA back in the day called &quo...MrFixr55 — 05:32 PM
Jackson 715 not working
Usually in an emission tester, the tube under test is measured as if it were a diode. So, some testers connect all the g...RodB — 04:17 PM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
Yep. F5 is green, D5 is Red. Red is Bad. Green is Clean.morzh — 01:30 PM
Jackson 715 not working
I did start to do that but I stalled out because I could not figure out how the grid and plate get voltage. In this diag...daveone23 — 11:52 AM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
(Insert Homer Simpson "DOPF" Here.) When all fails, look at the can. Took the Ron Ramirez advice, red Caig D...MrFixr55 — 09:23 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
From your text I am not sure if you intend to use the existing speaker with a resistor instead of the field coil. It wo...morzh — 08:44 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
My field coil is bad. I am still hoping to find an original, but if I can't I will go with a fitting Philco speaker, 125...dconant — 08:34 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
As Rod said, it is OK to use a fitting speaker, and then look for an original one. If you buy a Hammond 125 output tr...morzh — 08:15 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
Yes, I often have to substitute, then keep an eye out for an original. In the meantime, the radio is working and being e...RodB — 08:02 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently no members online.

>