[davemc]

Does anyone know if there is an AC version of the 37-624, a 6-tube 6-volt DC farm set? It has a complex 3 section bandswitch, and a very high build quality. I restored a 37-624 - one of my favorite restorations (and very complex). Here is the after restoration photo, in case someone recalls a similar AC set:

[Image: http://mcclellans.com/images/Philco37-62...ssis-1.jpg]

Thanks!

[Ron Ramirez]

Yes - Model 37-620.

http://philcoradio.com/gallery2/1937a/#Model_37-620B

Congrats on the restore. Did you restuff the paper caps?

[davemc]

Yes, all capacitors were restuffed. The radio was all original when received. I always try and retain all originality possible. I have the time! And it's a hobby, not a business. Here's my restoration log for that radio.

http://mcclellans.com/Philco%2037-624%20Restoration.htm

[dnitram]

I've been told I was crazy to dig out the tar on the old "speed boats" and put new caps & resistors inside vs. clipping leads and doing the replacement externally. But you are the first I've known to "re-stuff" the small capacitors. I'd like to start doing that. Could you explain the process, please? Thanks, David

[Ron Ramirez]

David

An excellent tutorial on this subject may be found here, on Chuck's site (archived version on Wayback Machine):

https://web.archive.org/web/201612031617...pbuild.htm

[Radioroslyn]

I think David is asking about the paper tubular caps. Once removed use a heat gun to heat the wax. Hold on to it with a rag grab one of the leads with pliers and pull. the innards will slide out leaving just the paper tube. I just slip the replacement cap inside without sealing up the ends. Some guys will use hot glue over the ends of the tube.
Terry

[Steve D]

I re-stuffed the paper caps on one radio I restored by using my drill press to drill out the innards from one end and after putting the new smaller part inside, I hot waxed the open end. Then I re-dipped each cap in melted wax that I got from a craft store so they looked original. That was a lot of work and I'll not do it again.

Steve D

[davemc]

Then I re-dipped each cap in melted wax that I got from a craft store so they looked original. Steve D

What type of wax did you use? I tried once to dip restuffed caps in paraffin from a melted candle, but that did not work too well. Did you use beeswax? I normally clean off the existing wax on the outside of the caps before restuffing, since in most cases it is very dirty and grungy. I heat it up using a small alcohol lamp or heat gun and wipe it off using paper towels.

[Steve D]

Yeah, I also heated most of the old wax off ans then cleaned the paper tube lightly with lacquer thinner before dipping in new wax. I got a beeswax formulation form Michael's craft store. It comes in a block that appears opaque white but when melted becomes clear. I have attached a photo of the chassis underside while I was working on it.

Steve D

Note from site admin: Sorry, but the photo which was attached to this post is no longer available.

[harley92]

Hi,
I am in the process of restoring a 37-624 and working on the vibrator power supply. Did you restuff the .5uf metal case caps (#s 72, 75, &76) and what did you use?
I need info on voltage rating of the caps. If you didn't restuff them, did you just replace them with orange drops or something like them. Any help from anyone reading this is appreciated.
I hope this is in the right place as I am new to this.
Thanks,
Gerald Daniel

[Radioroslyn]

Hi Gerald and welcome,
Looks like 77 is your buffer cap go w/a 1.6kv there, 75 is in the hv dc circuit 300v or more, 71,72, and 76 are in the low voltage circuit but there are a lot of ac spikes created by the vibrator so wound go with 300v or more the too.

[harley92]

Hi Radioroslyn,
Thanks for the reply and info. I will try to find some 630 volt ones to fit the metal cans and hopefully I can find a 1.6KV unit to fit the buffer cap. It's going to be a tight squeeze for the buffer cap due to location. If I successfully restuff the metal caps, I will post pix of my procedure to help others.

[Radioroslyn]

> hopefully I can find a 1.6KV unit to fit the buffer cap. It's going to be a tight squeeze for the buffer cap due to location.
Ceramic would be a good choice in close quarters.

[harley92]

Hi again Terry,

The buffer cap has only a Philco number on it with no value. The number ends in a -S which usually means it is a shielded cap ( like the ones in the metal cans).
It is not in a metal can but looks like a standard paper/wax cap. I can't find any reference to that number in any Philco data I have. It is even one digit different
than what's listed in the parts list. The number on the cap is 30-4351-S. In the parts list is 30-4381, a .01uf tubular. Do you think it makes any difference? Vibrator
hash can be a problem in poor reception areas. I have found a 1600volt unit that will fit the space and I have found some units to fit the shielded can caps (#72, 75, 76).

Thanks for all the help everyone.
Gerald

[Arran]

For the buffer cap, or hash suppression capacitor, in the vibrator supply I don't know what the capacitive value was in this particular case but they do need to be in the killivolt range. I think that they are supposed to be something like .025 uf or something like that, just look at some 6 volt car radio supplies to get an idea. I was told that ceramic caps are a bad idea in this application and that film caps are better, however if you can't find a 1 KV cap use a pair of 630 volt ones in series which will give you 1260 Volts.
Regards
Arran